New concepts for hair care
Angus presented their multifunctional alkalising agent Dmamp Ultra PC for oxidative hair colourants with high colour deposition and longevity, and wash fastness on bleached hair, especially in red and black shades. It also performed better on grey coverage, maintaining the colour even after 15 washes. Another advantage is that it does not have a harsh odour in contrast to systems with MEA and ammonia.
Ashland launched a refresh to the ongoing dry shampoo trend. New Advantage Revive polymer is based on a unique polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) chemical process. It leaves hair feeling cleaner and looking shinier with enhance luster matching the appearance of freshly washed hair while giving consumers next-day hair that looks as good as the first day. It can be used in aerosol and non-aerosol dry shampoo applications.
BASF’s Rambuvital seed extract protects both the scalp and hair follicles against pollution-induced stress. It increases hair follicle vitality and reduces sebum oxidation triggered by exposure to pollutants and UV. The seed extract enhances the cornified scalp’s barrier function, contributing to water retention by increasing transglutaminase-1 and loricrin synthesis in keratinocytes. In vivo, the scalp was significantly more hydrated within one month and the hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier.
Clariant, launched two new green actives, expanding possibilities for high RCI formulations with the special consumer appeal of weightless textures and delightful sensory without silicones. Plant-based, lightweight emollients Plantasens Flash 80 and Flash 100 deliver functionality and extraordinary sensory to multi-facted applications, e.g. shampoos.
NeutroTain DMG is an alkaline neutraliser based on renewable feedstock which facilitates mildness and hazard-label free claims to traditionally harsher products such as hair colouring and hair removal. Based on 75% sugars it has a good ecotox profile, high performance for functional claims, and is suitable for novel formulation concepts. It doesn’t require any GHS irritant labels. It also provides a natural, hazard-label free alternative to substitute conventional neutralisers and other chemicals without loss of performance. Ammonia can be replaced or reduced and still achieve dark tonality 4.0 from hair dye formulations that are mild to the scalp.
Croda’s ProSina serves as a replenishment for relaxed African hair. Using a proteomic approach, the researchers found out that certain peptides found within ProSina match keratin peptides lost specifically from relaxed African hair. The new ingredient is able to deposit on the cuticle and penetrate into the cortex of hair and increases the tensile strength of relaxed African hair.
Expanscience’s SkinhairgiumBio is a concentrate to promote healthier hair. It boosts growth and slows down hair loss. The ingredient acts simultaneously on the biological markers involved in hair growth and hair loss for stronger, healthier growing hair.
Greentech’s Dandrilys, a natural active that is even more efficient than pyrithione zinc. Thanks to its high saponin content, it rapidly removes dandruff with a long-lasting effect (72h). Soothing and calming, it decreases irritations and itching. It gently removes flakes, restores the skin barrier and normal cell renewal, and reduces inflammation by decreasing histamine release. The scalp immediately regains a healthy appearance, scales disappear, along with itching and irritations. The active ingredient was granted the Frost & Sullivan Innovation Award.
www.greentechgmbh.de, www.greentech.fr
Inolex showcased AminoSensyl HC, a pre-neutralised, natural hair care active system, that provides higher performance and ease of formulation in hair conditioning and treatment products. The system contains rassicyl valinate esylate, an amino lipid derived from valine amino acid, which has a non-quat cationic charge for hair substantivity and a better aquatic toxicity profile than traditional conditioning or strengthening cationic surfactants. It delivers significant strengthening, conditioning, smoothness, and definition in hair applications.
Nouryon presented Amaze SP, a bio-based polymer for ‘weightless’ hair styling. The new polymer is a result of the company’s exclusive global supply agreement with Itaconix to market bio-based polymers to customers in the personal care market. The polymer is plant-based and provides a unique weightless hold while enabling a very natural look and feel on the hair. It offers humidity resistant style retention, volume and anti-frizz performance comparable to synthetic polymers.
Sabinsa launched Lactosporin, a novel probiotic metabolite for skin and hair that has antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-collagenase properties, shows protective efficacy against UV radiation, environmental pollutants, prevents microbial biofilm formation and induces hair growth by stimulating the dermal papillary cells. LactoSporin is a non-living microbial cell product (postbiotic). It is purified from the culture supernatant of the probiotic strain B. coagulans MTCC 5856 (LactoSpore).
Sederma presented Apiscalp, an eco-designed product dedicated to scalp purity and comfort and a natural extract of Apium graveolens (celery) seeds obtained by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. It helps fight against dandruff, itching, dryness and hyperseborrhea to provide beauty and comfort to both oily scalp and dry scalp.
Seppic introduced Daily Beautifying Hair Serum, a new sustainable formula with a texture that is based on Emogreen L15, Fluidifeel Easy and Sepimax Zen. Emogreen L15 is a biodegradable, renewable and non-polar oil and an alternative to silicone oils in hair care, Fluidifeel Easy is a glycolipidic O/W sustainable emulsifier, from 100% vegetable origin and Mass Balance certified. And Sepimax Zen is used in small quantities to texturise and stabilise the formula, and to increase its sprayability performance. Xylishine adds hydrating properties to the product: the botanical inspired active ingredient is made of an association of natural sugars derived mainly from wood and the brown algae Pelvetia canaliculata.
Symrise presented SymHair Shape & Color, a hair care ingredient based on selected plant oils, additional natural ingredients and emollients. It is able to tame volume and frizz, gives a memory effect to curls even in high humidity and protects coloured hair from fading. It also strengthens the hair and decreases hair breakage.
VAV Life Sciences, separating the egg proteins from the egg yolk to yield egg yolk oil, leads to a natural oil: Oleova. The oil is rich in micro-nutrients such as omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidant colouring matter xanthophylls (lutein and zea-xanthin), cholesterol, phospholipids, immunoglobulins, vitamin D and bioavailable zinc. The fatty acid profile of egg oil closely resembles mother’s milk. Egg oil draws humidity from the air, moisturises the skin and prevents excessive drying. Also, the scalp requires the same to regenerate hair follicular cells. Egg oil is also a good source of cholesterol which is important to maintain cell membrane structure which, in turn, helps to heal dry and damaged skin and rebuild damaged hair cuticle. Due to its ability to enhance topical penetration, it can be used as a carrier of actives and its phospholipids content matches the skin lipid matrix which makes it a skin friendly product. Egg oil is also easily formulated in skin or hair care preparations such as oils, lotions, creams, masks, conditioners, serums etc.
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