Neurocosmetics

What is your definition of neurocosmetic products?

Anne Abriat: The definition that I would favour today is the one from the publications of Misery1 and al. “products applied onto the skin (…), having activity on the cutaneous nervous system, or, in general, having effects on skin mediators”2, 3. The concept is based on a combination of the NICE (nervous, immune, cutaneous, and endocrine system) and meets the ancient knowledge of Traditional Medicine such as TCM, Ayurveda, etc. According to me, it synthesises the current field of neuroscientific knowledge associated with beauty products – skincare, make-up, perfumes – which has specially evolved in in parallel with the understanding of one of the very first neurocosmetics subjects that has been treated: that of sensitive skin.

Previously, and at the early beginning of neuroscience, I would also like to remind the review of Jean-Claude Le Joliff, during the 90s, which suggests the link between skin and emotion. The belief persisted for a long time that the skin was not innervated. It was rightly invalidated by Professor Misery in the 2000s. The skin is far from being an independent organ. The skin is also a very connected tissue. Its receptors react at several levels - chemical, mechanical and biological – and support the regulatory processes of the skin. This has opened innovative fields of research for Scientifics and new opportunities for brands. 

For example: Lots of studies have been establishing a relationship between stress and the following concerns with lots of publications and a recent one published in Nature from Ugolini and al on a neuroimmune regulatory pathway which could lead to new therapeutic perspectives for inflammatory diseases.4

In the late 1990’s, a few have explored this territory by offering formulas that bring wellness to the forefront. They arrived too early. Even if as early as the 2000s, it was demonstrated that certain active ingredients generated the secretion of beta-endorphins, the concept of “beauty that heals and provides well-being” found an echo with consumers, thanks to the recent and more democratic advent of neuroscience.“

Why is it necessary to abstain from
microplastics in cosmetic products?

Anne Abriat: The effects of different sensorial pathways have been used for years to enhance the properties of cosmetics. They were based on traditional and ancestry knowledge at the beginning, with no objectivation. The art of formulation has recently evolved with modern science, and specially neuroscience. It is also demonstrated today that perfume and perfumed cosmetic products activate the reward circuit, which widens the field of possibilities. The story telling has therefore become more scientific towards consumers and the number of product references intended to provide well-being/stress relief has experienced very strong growth, especially in the covid and post-covid context. It’s a race for the most original claims, from brands and ingredient manufacturers... It’s confusing for the consumer. “Wellness” has been overused. We must associate it with tangible results, and this is what the regulations require.

It is therefore essential to design multi-dimensional evaluation protocols, which will objectivate impact of the application of a cosmetic product on emotions, self-confidence, perception of well-being/stress relief and skin benefits. And this also considering context, cultural factors that can influence perceptions. 

I remember a protocol that aimed to demonstrate the positive effect of a perfume on a person’s well-being – dopamine level, energy – in two different geographical areas. This effect has been demonstrated, but in one of the areas, it was also demonstrated that it had also a positive impact on the social network around, and this gap with the other area was exclusively cultural.

“Well-being testing methods” should help brands to design most appropriate protocols to support relevant claims and benefits for the consumer. The challenge is to design standard ones to meet economical issue, while being as accurate as possible. Transparency towards consumers is essential, on a long term, success of a product is a good indicator.

According to you, are there technologies and/or methods that will revolutionise the use of neurocosmetics and/or make them progress?

Anne Abriat: Yes and no! It is a fact that the evaluation solutions are still insufficient to meet all our needs, even if the technologies and methods have progressed and will continue to do so, by way of aggregation in particular: by combining existing technologies and methods, at the behavioral, psychological, physiological, and even biological level. The range of possibilities is very wide. It is multidisciplinary research, so it is important to follow all the research in these various fields and to build combinatory measures with the best worldwide scientific researchers/ institutions.

I mentioned the ability of cosmetic products to generate positive emotions. This results in, among other things, an increase in the level of beta endorphins. We would therefore need a device that allows us to sample and perform a rapid measurement of beta endorphins. If anyone is working on this, let us know! It is also possible to analyse the metabolites in sweat, as markers of happiness. I think that beyond the combination of methods, a lot of progress will come from the diversion of existing devices from other industries. Well-being/Anti-stress is a universal user’s expectation that interests all sectors of activity. I therefore attach great importance to technological monitoring in all sectors. 

What perspectives do you see for neurocosmetics?

Anne Abriat: Well-being / Anti-stress is at the core of all innovation strategies! This subject is promising because it mobilises various scientific expertise such as chemistry, biology, psychology, behavioural sciences, artificial intelligence, virtual reality, etc. Thanks to current knowledges, 3rd generation of Emotional/ multisensorial cosmetics will be oriented with ever finer targeting, combining both, touch and aroma functions to bring objectivated benefits and positive emotions to the user, while spreading them to its close and broader circle.

References:

 1 Laurent Misery is professor of dermatology and venerology at the University of Brest and head of the department of dermatology at the University Hospital of Brest and the French Expert Centre on Pruritus. He founded and leads the Laboratory Interactions Neurons-Keratinocytes (LINK) at the University of Brest. His team is dedicated to translational research on itch, from fundamental (biological and physiological) to pathophysiological, clinical, psychological and therapeutic aspects.

 2 L. Misery, “[Neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS)],” Pathol Biol (Paris), vol. 44, no. 10, pp. 867-74, Dec 1996. [Online]. Available: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9157366. Le systeme neuro-immuno-cutane (SNIC). 

 3 L. Misery, “Les nerfs à fleur de peau,” Int J Cosmet Sci, vol. 24, no. 2, pp. 111-6, Apr 2002, doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00134.x.

 4 J. Hosoi (2006) Skin Barrier function, G. Plewig et al., A. Slominski et al., C.C. Zouboulis, (2005) Sebum up-regulation; Inoue et al. Skin pigmentation Mariko Egawa et al.,(2014) Hydration loss, Inflammation,   Ugolini et coll. Nature (2021) Sensory neuron-derived TAFA4 promotes macrophage tissue repair functions.