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photo: Roman Kyryliuk/Shutterstock.com
photo: Roman Kyryliuk/Shutterstock.com

As the colour cosmetics market recovers after a challenging few years, where do the opportunities lie and what do consumers want from make-up products in the mid-2020s? Edson Barros of dsm-firmenich shares his insights on key consumer trends and delivering the future of colour care with hybrid make-up solutions.

photo: DSM-Firmerich
photo: DSM-Firmerich

The world of colour cosmetics has experienced more than its fair share of 
turbulence recently. As it begins to recover from the impact of the pandemic and the changes to lifestyles that that entailed, how optimistic are you?

Edson Barros: Well, with the “lockdown lifestyle” hopefully behind us now, beauty consumers are embracing make-up once more and the sector appears to be making a strong recovery. In fact, Euromonitor are predicting that the global colour care market will be worth more than $93 billion by 2026 and will have an annual growth rate of 6% from this year onwards.1 Some nuance is needed of course, as some regions and segments are faring better than others. The premium sector, for example, is expected to see annual growth of 7% until 2026, by which time it could represent 45% of the total market. China is still doing well too, with its market having grown 20% in the last five years. Overall, I’d say there’s every reason to feel optimistic, especially when it comes to facial colour care, which is expected to be the fastest growing sub-category for the next three years.

What are the key trends in make-up 
products now? Has this changed since 
the end of 2019?

Edson Barros: Demand for cleaner, more sustainable, and eco-friendly solutions has been increasing for some time; more and more people think about their impact on the planet now, so this trend is still going from strength to strength. Another trend that’s gaining momentum and that we’re finding particularly interesting though, is the growing demand for hybrid make-up solutions that combine colour cosmetics with additional skin care benefits. 

These types of product have been around for some time and have always been popular with consumers who prioritise convenience in their beauty routines. However, it’s fair to say that the current interest in hybrid make-up is driven by various attitude shifts that either came about or accelerated during the pandemic.

For obvious reasons, many people are more health-conscious now, and as a reflection of this, we’re seeing an increased focus on skin health too. Beauty consumers still want to look good, enhance their features and play around with colour cosmetics, but because some products can be harsh on skin, they are toning down the heavy make-up. Today, it’s all about taking care of the skin and looking natural rather than quick fixes and superficial effects, so there is a demand for solutions that work with skin not just on it. Hybrid cosmetics also appeal to those consumers who want to streamline their beauty routines as part of a more general approach to keeping life simple. For people like this, it makes perfect sense to make the most of the many hours they wear make-up each day, by choosing products that actively care for their skin at the same time.

"Demand for cleaner, more sustainable, and eco-friendly solutions has been increasing"

What might this mean for our industry 
and what kinds of challenges do hybrid make-up products present for formulators 
and manufacturers?

Edson Barros: As leading suppliers of ingredients to the personal care industry, our company understands how important efficacy and performance are, both to end consumers and brands. Indeed, we know that these are the top attributes our customers look for when selecting ingredients for colour care formulations. 

So, it is essential to have reliable efficacy data available on the benefits that any skin care actives used in make-up applications can provide. 

Ease of formulation and adaptability are major considerations too. No-one wants to have to start from scratch, or to make things more complex than they need to be, because, say, an active has adversely affected a formula’s stability or texture. 

So, it is also important to choose ingredients that can be easily incorporated into colour cosmetic applications, or maybe even help simplify the formulation process.

Achieving the best of two worlds may seem quite the challenge, but with proven and data backed ingredients that are also compatible for use in make-up, brands have an efficient way to develop formulations that deliver both colour and skin care benefits to consumers.

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What kinds of benefits are consumers looking for and how can these be combined with make-up products?

Edson Barros: We know from recent Mintel studies2 that there is strong demand for solutions that protect skin from external stressors, target signs of skin ageing, moisturise, or address skin sensitivity. “Plumping” and brightening effects are still very popular too, especially in China. This gives plenty of scope and having identified quite a range of ingredients in our own portfolio that are compatible with cosmetics and supported by reliable efficacy data, our formulations experts have been getting creative.

To give you some examples, a liquid foundation formulation could be enhanced with UVA filters for protection and skin actives that boost skin health and help reduce signs of skin ageing  –  a highly effective way to add colour to the complexion while making sure skin is in the best 
condition possible. As an alternative to a full foundation,  a tinted serum infused with a peptide that brings out skin’s natural glow and an active proven to deliver long lasting hydration could be very appealing. Or how about a colour lip tint featuring a peptide ingredient that gives a smooth and even plumping effect alongside actives that soothe and provide maximum hydration? There are so many possibilities. Not forgetting developers’ needs, we’ve also identified those ingredients in our portfolio that can help keep make-up formulations stable and clump free, that can promote lasting colour, or that deliver pleasing and easy to apply textures. 

So are hybrid make-up solutions the way forward?

Edson Barros: They have real potential to be, and with the right ingredients and formulations expertise, they could be a win-win for brands and end consumers. At dsm-firmenich, we are certainly looking forward to inspiring and working with our partners to help them deliver the future of colour cosmetics with novel, hybrid make-up products.

References

1 Euromonitor 2023

2 Mintel 2023

photo: Edson Barros
photo: Edson Barros

Edson Barros

Sr. Director of Global Strategic Marketing & Market Ready Solution in Personal Care. dsm-firmenich, www.dsm.com

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