Joy of playing included

COSSMA: Your new no water product is reminiscent of a kind of playing sand. Where did the idea of developing this form of cosmetic product come from?

The idea originated from a colleague in India who was inspired after playing with colourful kinetic type sand with their child. She loved the texture and thought it would make for a  really novel personal care formula. We think she was right!

What was the greatest challenge in developing this sand?

The greatest challenge was trying to match the kinetic nature of this type of ‘playing-sand’. We had to try many different combinations of ingredients – a total of 21 – until we achieved a texture that we were happy with.

The ingredient selection was based on natural content and functionality to achieve the correct effect. For the “sandy” base we have developed cleansing scrubs using foodstuffs such as sugar or salt and pepper. We thought the granules we have used before were too large for the sand effect, so after a little research maltodextrin was chosen.

Which materials are used here? Which ones have proven to be unsuitable, if any?

We have used a variety of ingredients including a versatile solubiliser¹ and effective cleanser with proven counter irritancy benefits. It is this and the maltodextrin that help provide the milky lotion effect on addition of water. A silicone alternative² was included to aid the kinetic nature of the sand. Also, an efficient cleansing emmollient³ was included and an ingredient that helps ensure a stable formulation that can be shaped and moulded⁴.

Anything water-based had to be avoided as this would ‘melt’ the sand. The system had to be anhydrous.

What types of active ingredients can be integrated here?

We would recommend oil-based actives, for example one that is made of lime⁵ has been included here to help to clean and tone the skin, leaving it sparkling with energy. 

In what form of packaging could the sand come onto the market?

We would recommend that this is wrapped in recyclable packaging such as a glass jar. The packaging itself must be air-tight to prevent the product from absorbing atmospheric moisture. The texture would be affected as the formulation turns into a pulp. As a cleanser, the formulation would still be functional.

What are the challenges here regarding the shelf life or the risk of contamination after opening?

The risks here are very similar to that of standard emulsions and other products that are packaged in a jar that you would dip your finger in. The product is preserved, however the use of a small scoop/spatula to prevent transfer of bacteria could help negate any risk of contamination.

Approximately how much water and energy are saved in manufacturing compared to a traditional face or body scrub?

We find a traditional face or body scrub contains approximately 80% water, however this product is anhydrous. It is also manufactured using a cold process, which saves energy by avoiding any unnecessary heating. Based on a one metric tonne batch, conventional production methods can use around 64.30 kWh of energy if heating to 80°C. Cold process is in the region of 11.30 kWh. This is a reduction of approximately 80% of energy.

How high is the saving potential of water when using it?

Water is still needed to use the product, however since there is no water within the product, it does save on the unnecessary shipping of water within the supply chain. Only a small quantity of water is needed to ‘activate’ the melting properties of the sand. 

How does the ecological footprint of these sands differ compared to exfoliant products?

To be honest, a full lifecycle analysis has not yet been carried out for this formulation; this is something we endeavour to do more of in future. However, the formulation does avoid the use of harsh physical exfoliants as well as microbeads which may both be irritating to the skin and detrimental to the environment. 

How can the target group of this sand be defined? 

The target consumer group is wide. Transformative textures appeal to many, from kids to adults. We think this formulation appeals to anybody looking for a fun and unique cleansing experience.

What potential does this dosage form have?

We believe this type of formulation has some great benefits associated with it including:

• anhydrous / waterless formulation means no unnecessary use of water during manufacture or shipping of water thereafter
• it’s compatible with recyclable packaging formats, e.g. glass jar
• depending on the actives added, it could be used for skin either on face or body
• less messy than a liquid
• the product is not a fine dust and so there is no inhalation risk.

References:

1 NatraGem S140

2 Crodamol SFX

3 Crodamol IPIS

4 ViscOptima SE

5 Phytolea Lime