Homeopathy for skin care?: COSSMA

Cossma: What is so special about the show NOPE?

Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Futurologist & Trend Watcher, Hint Futurology Creative Consultancy: NOPE is the equivalent of Biofach Vivaness for the UK. As a futurologist looking at new ideas for beauty care, it’s a great place to see the new up-and-coming ingredients for health – that will inevitably trickle over to personal care. This year’s big find was saffron. It’s Viridian’s* ingredient of the year because apparently it relieves anxiety and helps lift mood.

But surely this is only when it’s ingested, isn’t it? How does this impact beauty care?

It’s the halo effect. An ingredient associated with well-being can be paired with one with a proven aromatherapeutic effect e.g. lavender, to create a new variant that’s on trend. And of course saffron is already well established in skin care thanks to Korres’ sumptuous Golden Crocus Ageless Elixir Serum.

Korres’ serum features saffron, Photo: Korres

Were there any other key takeaways?

Yes, homeopathic skin care. The Latvian brand is calling it an IN.EX. – internal-external approach. So it’s a supplement (pearl – for a beauty from the inside out approach) and a topical, used together. The same homeopathic active ingredient is in both. They also claim that the actives from the cream enter the blood system and care for the skin. We’re seeing lots of exciting product development from Latvia, so worth keeping an eye on this region.

This counterintuitive approach is taking “less is more” in a radical direction! It will appeal to those consumers who use homeopathic remedies for health and well-being, which is a small audience, but one that is loyal to that practise.

Is the Nordic wellness trend still impacting natural cosmetics?

Yes, absolutely. I was e.g. impressed by Chaga. This is about the mushroom that Origins’ Dr Weil uses, along with reishi and others. The positioning slots nicely into the Nordic wellness trend – hygge and lagom – because it only grows on birch trees. I expect to see more cosmetics brands using “local” mushrooms on a platform of ancient or traditional healing and remedies. There’s already a soft drink with birch juice and chaga.

At Vivaness we saw lots of buzz around magnesium. Was it the same in London?

Yes! Magnesium is now so trendy that different strengths, fragrances and targets (kids) are developing – instead of the single SKU gel. It’s also got stylish i.e. instagramable! BetterYou (whom you know for their oral vitamin D spray and transdermal magnesium line) has launched two body lotions specifically linking magnesium with sleep. On the cosmetics side, Ecotan champions “magnesium salt’s brilliant anti-inflammatory and healing properties, which exfoliate toxins and impurities to help clear acne and problem skin.” And one of my highlights was the new probiotic facial mask from Nourish London. Although it’s not mentioned on the pack front, the press release tells us that the star mineral is magnesium: “magnesium can help address inflammation of the dermis which can lead to acne and rosacea… magnesium fits all skin types and helps everyone.”

Talking about the brand BetterYou, they claim to be able to deliver calcium transdermally, which was new to me. BTW the other innovation from this brand is an iron oral spray.

Saffron, an up-and-coming ingredient for health, will inevitably trickle over to personal care. Photo: Valentina Razumova/Shutterstock.com

Sustainability is key in the naturals market. Any special examples?

You might know Optiat (One Person’s Trash Is Another’s Treasure); they launched last year at this show with body care products using waste such as left-over coffee grounds. The brand is sold in Top Shop, a fast fashion, mass market clothing retailer with a young audience.

They have two great new lines: soap bars using left over chai spices (after brewing) and their first facial care products with coffee oil – extracted from the used grounds. “Circular” is front of pack – so this term is bound to get more exposure in future.

Interview with:

Helga Hertsig-Lavocah
Futurologist & Trend Watcher
Hint Futurology Creative
Consultancy, Dublin, Ireland

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