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Photo: Alona Siniehina/Shutterstock.com
Photo: Alona Siniehina/Shutterstock.com

Natural is no longer enough. The latest trend is called clean beauty and attaches great importance to sustainability and safety. Is it just hype, or will it be the future?

Understanding beauty is something that is constantly evolving, clean beauty even more if we try to define it now. One thing is clear: the term “clean beauty” is more than a marketing tactic. It becomes an industry standard like the inclusiveness and authenticity of a brand. Today’s consumer is health- and environment-conscious and can find out about podcasts, social media, apps, influencers and a host of other content on the go. This means that he makes informed decisions about beauty and lifestyle brands. In the beauty area you will find information n topics like sustainable and vegan, natural, or organic, which reflects how quickly clean beauty gains momentum and turnover. The rise in retailers who follow a “clean” beauty ethic also affects how consumers shop and view the category. Some of these retailers are leaders in beauty education, and their evolution from natural to clean causes some consumers to choose products that they perceive as “clean” rather than just natural. Consumers are placing increasing emphasis on sustainability and now expect brands to be environmentally friendly. This gives brands the opportunity to emphasize sustainable production methods and environmentally friendly packaging (source:

Mintel).

No clear definition yet

Clean beauty is about the safety of ingredients compared to the procurement of synthetic or natural ingredients. This encourages brands to look for the latest innovations in ingredients that have little impact on the environment. As with natural tones, clean beauty is not regulated, and industry experts have not yet explicitly agreed on its definition. However, as the ingredients are checked, the proportion of well-informed consumers for whom brands must act ethically and ecologically also increases. 67% of UK customers say they no longer use brands with unethical practices (source: Mintel).

No irritation, please!

Of course, nature will no longer suffice in 2020 as consumers continue to check on what is in the products they put on their skin. Zero irritants becomes the new standard for natural beauty (source: Mintel). Some brands have even opened clean beauty or natural branches of their master brand shops. In France, for example, Naturalia, an organic grocery chain, recently opened the 100% organic (bio) beauty and wellness business, Naturalia Origines  Carrefour also opened the first Sources Store in the heart of the Marais (Paris) with a selection of 170 brands, all of which were checked by the scientific team behind the Clean Beauty app. Controversial products and other allergens in cosmetics were identified and placed on a list of 75 common but controversial ingredients such as parabens and aluminium. All products that contain these ingredients are banned from the shelves of the sources.

Well informed customers

Today security is a key factor in the movement for natural and clean beauty. Consumers are becoming more conscientious about ingredients. The “INCI” list in BPC products reads like a recipe for most savvy beauty buyers, and everyone is looking for what they think is safe. This trend shows no signs of slowing down, as 42% of consumers are willing to pay more for natural or organic products, which makes it the most frequently mentioned shopping behavior (source: Light-Speed / Mintel report). As the clean beauty movement evolves, the innovation in ingredients will also affect future product requirements and performance. Each brand defines its version of clean beauty that combines several attributes that are unique to its definition. Clean beauty is still open to interpretation. However, with increasing customer control, the proportion of well-informed consumers increases, and they demand that brands behave ethically and ecologically. 67% of UK customers say they would stop using brands with unethical practice (Mintel 2019). Even lifestyle requirements such as veganism are becoming more and more beautiful and have increased by up to 23% in recent years.

Concepts for clean beauty

The natural movement continues to shape the BPC industry due to the perception of security. Retailers and brands rely on standards for clean beauty, which leads to a shift from natural to clean. In addition, consumers are becoming more aware of the impact of their demand for natural ingredients on the planet and are looking for ways to reduce their carbon footprint. Univar Solutions takes a stand and develops the Clean by Design concept to inspire customers and help them find their way in the clean beauty room. They created a series of clean rules of beauty to control formulations and the selection of ingredients. Defined rules combine several key consumer attributes for sustainable beauty while maintaining the exceptional textures and performance of the beauty products that consumers love.

High standards

The selection of ingredients includes the latest ingredient innovations to achieve a pleasant texture while protecting the environment. The charter includes the formulation process to save time and energy and to optimize processes even with cold processes. The INCI of a product must be easy to read and transparent

for a consumer. Nowadays, consumers are interested in transparency and easy-to-understand products. Still performance is critical and skin mildness is important. Sustainability goals are mandatory, including properties such as biodegradability or zero waste. Products are important when there is little environmental pollution, even with natural ingredients or even with environmental packaging. The increase in refillable and reusable packaging in other consumer categories is driving innovation in beauty and personal care as consumers try to reduce waste. They check their own beauty behavior to avoid contamination by single-use plastics. (Source: Mintel)

Important: sustainability

The concept, which focuses on the use of recyclable packaging such as materials made from natural biopolymers, aluminium tubes as well as glass bottles and glasses, is 100% recyclable and can be endlessly recycled without loss of purity or quality. The suppliers of partner ingredients selected in the concept have all ethical programs and a CSR guideline on which they are working. There are also partners in our program who even have an Ecovadis ranking from gold to silver. Some of our key products are natural or naturally derived materials. As water is becoming increasingly important for safety, newly developed concentrated formulations play an important role. Twelve inspiring formulations have been developed, from hair cleaning to sun care to make-up. At least four rules apply to

the wording. For example, the SPF 30 sunscreen contains natural ingredients and a concept without waste, mild ingredients and optimized performance. The selected ingredients come from suppliers with CSR guidelines and ethical programs. Sun protection is designed for environmentally conscious consumers who don’t want to compromise on performance. This sun protection with 100% mineral UV filter and a broad spectrum of protection shows a good balance between natural and synthetic ingredients. The efficiency of zinc oxide is optimized with high-performance SPF boosters and vegetable softeners that nourish the skin. The natural functional ingredients provide a rich and creamy texture and contribute to a pleasant application. As the clean beauty movement continues to develop, ingredients and formulation innovations will continue to shape the future. In addition, consumers are becoming more aware of the effects of the demand for natural ingredients on the planet and are looking for ways to reduce their carbon footprint.

Silke Langer,
senior marketing manager BPC,
Univar Solutions, Essen, Germany,
www.univarsolutions.com 

Further authors: Arnita Wofford, Lise Laure Duoyer Moral

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