A whole bunch of innovations - In-cosmetics 2019: COSSMA

Phot: Andrienko Anastasiya/Shutterstock.com

What new ingredient trends will be unveiled at this year’s In-Cosmetics Global held in Paris from April 2–4? Check out our exclusive preview now to find out.

ADPCosmetics, Stand P121, presents a new range of cosmetic grade mineral pigments manufactured with the patented technology of ADParticles: effectiveU with white, yellow, red and black colours. These ingredients allow different tonalities in cosmetics formulas, while behaving as SPF, UVA PF and blue light protection boosters. Besides providing colour they offer increased protection from UVB and UVA radiation and even from other regions of the electromagnetic spectrum. They boost the SPF result of a sunscreen formula. Two new nano-free mineral UV filters, EnhanceU-T-tan and EnhanceU-T-rich, allow intense tonalities in sunscreen formulations and colour cosmetics.
ww.adpcosmetics.es

Aqdot, Stand F34, has developed AqStar M1 for emulsification systems. As a naturally-derived alternative to synthetics, the ingredient provides the flexibility to produce a wide range of O/W emulsion formulations for hand, face and body.
https://www.aqdot.com/

BASF’s metallic-like effect pigment revives the spirit of pink and is carmine-free. Photo: BASF

BASF, Stand K70, present their Rambutan sustainable program for responsible beauty, see from page 12. Based on this superfruit, three new bio-actives were developed. Nephydrat, an extract of rambutan peel, helps to moisturise the skin and fuels it with energy. Nephoria, an extract of rambutan leaves, helps mature skin to rejuvenate by increasing both collagen and elastin fibres for improved skin elasticity and reduced wrinkles. Rambuvital from the seeds of rambutan protects hair from pollution by moisturising the scalp, increasing hair follicle vitality and refreshing the strands.
Bix’Activ, an extract from Bixa orellana seeds, reduces sebum production by restraining the proliferation of sebocytes in sebaceous glands. In addition, it blocks the signal that induces hyper-keratinisation and helps to refine pores as a result. Ciste’M, a rockrose extract adapted to arid climate, protects the DNA of skin cells from the effects of UVB exposure and prevents the deleterious effects of blue light. Euperlan OP White is a wax-based, readily biodegradable and cold processable opacifier dispersion with a superior white appearance for surfactant formulations. Cegesoft Peel consists of round wax beads that provide a gentle and mild exfoliation. BASF will also present its new generation of the Sunscreen Simulator with e.g. immediate dynamic calculations and side-by-side comparison of multiple formulations.
BASF Colours & Effects launches Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D, an intense metallic-like effect pigment that revives the spirit of pink and is carmine-free, thus fulfilling today’s most requested colour need.
www.carecreations.basf.com , www.colors-effects.basf.com

A must-see event: The Indie brands round table
Don’t miss the Indie brands round table: The secret of success moderated by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss. It will be held Wednesday, 3 April, 13.00–13.45 at the Marketing Trends Theatre situated this time inside the Pavillion 1, on the Pont des Expositions on the 1st floor. Ada Ooi from 001 Skincare, Dominika Minarovic and Elsie Rutterford from BYBI Beauty as well as Sam Farmer from Samuel Farmer will share their personal experience on the challenges faced by niche brands.As sourcing ingredients in small quantities is a challenge, Indie Trail Guide will detail exhibitors who provide quantities suitable for a production of up to 100kg.

BRB, Stand T28, will showcase the multi-tasking film former Colour Lock which is based on novel dispersions of trimethylsiloxysilicate. It holds fast vibrant colours for durable, rub-off and transfer resistance. BRB will introduce its new formulation concept around customized cosmetics, which hosts two base fluids, one for hair, the other for skin
www.brb-international.com

CFF, Stand L148, present their Sensocel powders blueprinting the skin sensation of Nylon, PMMA or PE. Perfect in leave-on products are Sensocel 5, 8, 10 and bc 20. The products are microplastic-free and biodegradable.
www.cff.de

Clariant, Stand E70, launches a new, avant-garde active ingredient that unlocks the secrets of healthy ageing by targeting the long non-coding RNA 886. Functional claims get a boost through the introduction of a natural and effective alternative to support the substantial market need for aluminum-free deodorants, alongside a sustainable and safe neutraliser to foster the evolution of the cosmetics industry to eco-friendly products. The company also introduces the new platform Clariant Naturals. In addition, future needs are translated into the first regional variations of the BeautyForward trend forecasting guides.
www.clariant.com

Courage + Khazaka, Stand P139, launches the Visioscan VC 20plus, a tool for efficacy testing and claim support for cosmetics, regarding skin roughness and micro-topography. It offers high resolution, non-glossy images, autofocus, SELS parameters for description of the skin surface with indices; topographic measurement; lines and free-hand objects for measurement of hair length after shaving or lesions; ageing parameters; evaluation of scaliness/dryness of the skin with the foil Corneofix F 20 and the determination of sebum production in real time with the foil Sebufix F 16.
www.courage-khazaka.de

DSM, Stand G60, present Epibiome Beauty which aims to develop a clear, scientifically proven link between changes in the composition of the skin microbiome and changes in physical skin condition and also to identify a link with the effects of specific ingredients. The results of a new study will show how three DSM actives in its current portfolio play a role in skin’s healthy appearance by working with skin microbiota. Tilamar Boost 150 offers both volume and care properties. PARSOL ZX is a zinc oxide grade suitable for a wide range of products. New in vivo data show how Pepha-Age reduces blue-light induced skin hyper-pigmentation to achieve an even skin tone, boosts the skin’s own defense, protects against skin damage caused by blue light, and minimises the visible appearance of ageing skin.
www.dsm.com

Eckart’s new pigment’s bulk colour is combined with a metallic-like brilliance. Photo: Eckart

Eckart, Stand D28, presents the new Syncrystal Supernova Orange pigment based on the company’s patented pearlescent technology. Its intense bulk colour is combined with a metallic-like brilliance. The new filler Ecofil B 110 is designed to achieve an instant soft-focus effect. The product is based on renewable resources gained from naturally fermented non-genetically modified corn.
www.eckart.net

Evonik, Stand H30, will showcase their Sipernat PC Hydrated Silica exfoliating particles, tailored to cover the full range of scrub formulations, enabling different desquamation and sensory properties. The very sturdy round-edged hydrated silica particles of Sipernat 250 PC and Sipernat 9000 PC are the preferred choice for formulations with a long-lasting scrubbing effect. The large Sipernat 9000 PC particles are selected for strong desquamation or as a sensory indicator when combined with smaller particles for cleaning. Sipernat 22 PC and Sipernat 2200 PC both feature spherical and softer particles, providing for a gentle cleaning. With its small and soft particles, Sipernat 22 PC is specially recommended for its efficient but gentle desquamation. Sipernat 2200 PC with the bigger particles leads to a more pronounced particle sensation.
www.evonik.com

Genomatica, Stand L30, is featuring Brontide, a naturally-sourced, sustainably-produced butylene glycol for natural products and reformulations of traditional products. The ingredient integrates seamlessly into existing product formulations while delivering high performance, superior quality and a simpler label. It can be used to replace petroleum-based butylene glycol with a natural alternative that delivers the same benefits. The ingredient is made from renewable plant sugars that are fermented by specialised microorganisms to produce the highest purity butylene glycol available.
www.genomatica.com

Gobiotics anti-ageing prebiotic provides hydration superior to hyaluronic acid. Photo: Gobiotics

Gobiotics, Stand A119, launches PreBiulintim Aga, a high molecular weight inulin, as an addition to the extensive range of functional prebiotics. This anti-ageing prebiotic counteracts the damage of preservatives to the skin and boost the skin’s natural hydration. The hydration is superior to hyaluronic acid.
www.gobiotics-ingredients.com

Greentech’s Hebelys maintains the beauty in postmenopausal skin. Photo: Laflor/IStockphoto.com

Greentech, Stand F50, present Hebelys, which acts on the key biological targets of senescence, boosts the cutaneous architecture and maintains the skin’s beauty specifically for women over 60 years of age. Some in vitro results showed its ability to improve the integrity of the dermis. A new study shows an increase in the skin suppleness by 12%, a reduction of the roughness by 9%, a decrease of the average relief on the face by 8%, an improvement of the isotropy by 14% and the maintenance of the cutaneous barrier. Moreover, the active induces a smoothing effect and has an anti-wrinkle effect on crow’s feet. In addition, it increases self-esteem by 10.5% (Rosenberg test). To summarise, the active ingredient maintains the beauty of postmenopausal skin by delaying the effects of ageing.
www.greentechgmbh.de

Education takes centre stage
Taking place over three days, the free-to-attend Marketing Trends sessions, hosted by leading research companies, consultancies and brands, will present insights into the newest industry trends, data and market analysis. Here, Angelika Meiss from COSSMA will be moderating the Indie brands roundtable, see box. This year’s education programme are features the Technical Seminars, Workshops and Live Demonstrations as part of the Innovation Zone and the Formulation Lab.

Lipoid Kosmetik’s Carotolino reduces blue-light induced skin damage while making the skin look vibrant. Photo: Lipoid

Lipoid Kosmetik, Stand E118, will showcase Carotolino which is based on the combination of carrot root extract, carrot seed oil and β-carotene, all united in a basis of canola oil in order to provide stabilised carotenoids. The active ingredient shows efficacy in shielding blue light, neutralising blue light-induced ROS and supporting a healthy and vivid skin colour. It thus incorporates the best of carrots including stabilised carotenoids.
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com

Merck, Stand M70 and T78, shows the luminous matte pigment Ronastar Black Allure for futuristic elegance with a micronised, velvety powder feeling. Ronastar Red Lights achieves an intense crystal-like sparkle with a very small particle size, enabling a gentle touch on the skin. The Make-up & Trends Station provides a glimpse into the future of colour cosmetics and the company’s Colour Forecast for Spring/Summer 2020 presents the newest trends for the upcoming season.
www.merck4cosmetics.com

Mibelle Biochemistry’s PhytoCellTec Goji improves cell-to-cell communication via exosomes. Photo: Mibelle

Mibelle Biochemistry, Stand L60, presents PhytoCellTec Goji, a novel stem cell active ingredient based on goji plant stem cells. It improves cell-to-cell communication via exosomes, small vesicles surrounded by a membrane which contain messenger molecules. In vitro studies showed that this active revitalises aged mesenchymal stem cells and boosts their exosome production.
This results in the improved production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts. In placebo-controlled clinical studies, treatment with this active significantly improved skin density and wrinkle depth.
Furthermore, a significant improvement of oval face shape through reduced sagging of facial contours was observed. Therefore, PhytoCellTec Goji rejuvenates the skin from inside out for an improved V-shaped face.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com

Omya’s Cosmospheres for visual effects and carrier functions. Photo: Omya

Omya, Stand F108, introduces Cosmospheres. These cellulose-based additives provide visual effects as well as carrier functions.
www.omya.com

Rahn, Stand D110, present Radicare Gold, which can be applied to the skin to provide it with a natural Faraday shield to screen it from radiation. Natural carotenoids have a dual effect on skin cells and carrier: as they activate PPARγ, they both defend skin cells against the effects of ROS and inhibit lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, the active replenishes the carotenoid depot of the skin barrier and provides a more juvenile appearance of the skin.
www.rahn-group.com

Schülke & Mayr, Stand C70, has developed Euxyl PE 9010, a cosmetic preservative that is globally established in the cosmetics industry. Due to the international limitation of  Phenoxyethanol up to a maximum of 1%, the idea came up to maximize the effectiveness of Phenoxyethanol with the help of an even more sophisticated system. The cosmetic preservative Euxyl K 830 exhibits effectiveness even in neutral pH ranges. Especially in leave-on formulations, the challenge test results of this preservative are convincing. Effisin is the new Schülke brand for pure active ingredients. In an environment limited by legislation and public controversies, stabilisation systems must continue to provide microbially safe cosmetic products. The multifunctional additive Effisin CG acts as a mild humectant and antimicrobial stabiliser. It is stable to hydrolysis, temperature and pH.
www.schuelke.com

Sederma, Stand C60, present their brightening active specifically developed for olive skin associated with phototypes III to V. This product, produced from plant cell cultures, an eco-designed production mode, addresses specific needs of this skin type: dullness, heterogeneous pigmentation, hyper-sensitivity and dehydration. Ecodermine recently benefited from new tests showing its ability to rebalance microbiota, bringing well-being and harmony.
www.sederma.fr

Synthos’ Vecticell, a carrier system with various advantages. Photo: Synthos

Synthos Care, Stand F31, presents Vecticell, a delivery platform for active substances built from pure phosphatidylcholine. It increases depth of penetration and bioavailability of active substances, protects the actives from external factors and provides a longer activity of cosmetics. Based on the Vecticell technology, the company has created cosmetic raw materials, in which active substances are encapsulated such as hyaluronic acid, which in its free form is not able to penetrate the skin at all; curcumin, which, as a highly hydrophobic substance, is difficult to incorporate in formulations but reduces wrinkles and pores and acts as a blue light filter, lipolysis, an anti-cellulite formula with caffeine, l-carnitine and sodium deoxycholate and capsaicin with its positive effect on microcirculation of blood to stimulate the scalp and warm up the body.
www.synthoscare.com

Prominent In-Cosmetics features
This year there are 3 R&D Tours featuring the topics Protection, Healthy Ageing and Preservation. The Innovation Zone is an interactive area featuring the most innovative ingredients launched within the past six months. The team from Mintel will also host live demonstrations to test innovative finished products. The Make-up Bar shows the latest solutions, formulations and colours. The free-to-attend interactive sessions at the Formulation Lab shows how formulations are designed. The Formulation Challenge on 4 April will provide six teams with a box of ingredients to create an innovative formulation in 90 minutes. The Sensory Bar is an interactive area in which visitors can try out formulations displayed at the bar. The Fragrance Zone with key fragrance houses and ingredient suppliers will present their latest innovations. This year’s Sustainability Corner with over 20 pods displays sustainable ingredients or supply chain projects. The Country Pavilions from countries such as Tunisia, Peru and South Korea will allow visitors to easily locate ingredients and source niche suppliers. Another show feature is the Testing and Regulation Zone.

Vytrus Biotech, Stand B79, will be presenting Olea Vitae PLF, a revitaliser of mature skin, that activates the skin’s energy rejuvenation cycles, recharging its internal batteries: the mitochondria. The active, made from stem cells of the wild olive tree, has been designed on an exclusive technology that extracts the essence of the lipids from the plant cell membrane. In vitro and in vivo assays to prove the increase of mitochondrial density, fusion and membrane potential showed that the skin thickness increased up to 25%, firmness and elasticity up to 69%, while reducing wrinkle depth volume.
www.vytrus.com

Zschimmer & Schwarz, Stand G38, has developed Protelan AG 37, an aqueous surfactant solution. The surfactant is produced from renewable fatty acid and amino acid glutamic acid. Cocoyl glutamates are extraordinarily mild surfactants which are able to reduce the irritation potential of other surfactants such as sulfate surfactants. Additionally, they create a creamy and stable foam with fine bubbles. This solution is free of propylene glycol and preservatives. The product therefore is a good option for natural bath preparations and shampoos in the natural cosmetics range.
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com