Where beauty and health meet

In the current decade, beauty is no longer simply about looking good. As part of a broader desire for health, more and more consumers are taking a holistic approach and looking for products that will also support their overall wellbeing. In a 2022 study in Europe, for example, 72% of respondents considered cosmetics and personal care products to be “important” or “very important” in improving their quality of life .

This focus on enhancing wellbeing by boosting, maintaining, or protecting the health and beauty of skin, scalp and hair is driving interest in dermocosmetic solutions. Products in this subcategory combine a cosmetic action with a dermatological action and the global market for such solutions was worth almost US$17 billion in 2021² . The most frequently bought products are facial care solutions for dry skin and ageing skin conditions but there is also strong demand for bodycare, suncare and haircare products³ . Perhaps unsurprisingly, many consumers seeking to enhance their health through personal care are also knowledgeable and socially conscious. Scientific evidence of efficacy is therefore very important to them, as are compelling sustainability credentials.⁴ To support brands serving the dermocosmetics space, or wanting to take advantage of the opportunities for innovation which the healthy beauty trend offers, dsm-firmenich is showcasing a range of novel solutions at in-cosmetics Global 2024 this April. From concepts to scientifically proven ingredients to formulations, these solutions are underpinned by sustainable practices, to support the planet, and are designed to help everyone look and feel their best.

Actives to boost skin’s natural defences

In the world of skincare, with more consumers realising that beautiful skin starts with healthy skin, there has been a fundamental shift away from the idea of “anti-ageing” to one of ageing well. This means maximising skin’s health and potential at every age, by focusing on prevention and boosting skin’s cellular processes to help repair and slow down signs of skin ageing. By supporting skin health from within, we can help protect it from the effects of outside factors. Over time, external stressors can have a major impact on skin functionality, causing skin to lose its vitality and firmness and leaving it fragile, dry, and prone to sensitivity. The smart dipeptide SYN-UP® unlocks skin’s natural potential from within by rebalancing Plasmin levels. In this way, it can help improve skin barrier function, fight skin dryness, sensitivity and redness, and protect against collagen degradation, to leave skin looking smoother and firmer. While chronological ageing cannot be stopped, biological ageing is reactive and can be slowed down if we address the root causes. The novel bioactive ETERWELL™ YOUTH supports cell function by selectively removing dermo-destructive senescence cells, to promote skin’s natural renewal processes. This helps restore collagen, improving skin texture and structure and reducing the visibility of wrinkles, to give skin a younger and smoother appearance. Extracted from the rare alpine plant “Epilobium fleischeri”, ETERWELL® -YOUTH is also ethically sourced, and Cosmos, Natrue organic and Fair for Life fair trade certified .

Benefits beyond sun protection

More consumers are linking daily sunscreen use with selfcare and their overall skin health. Scientific evidence also shows that UV filters can deliver other skin benefits beyond protecting against sunburn⁵ . To support the evolution towards everyday sunscreen, dsm-firmenich is launching a new concept in suncare. Featuring innovative sun protection formulations with added antioxidants, moisturisers, and scientifically proven ingredients to protect, nourish, hydrate and rejuvenate skin, Evolusun is all about delivering the everyday skin care benefits consumers are looking for – in easy to apply formats and with appealing textures. At the heart of Evolusun lies the PARSOL® portfolio of high-performance UV filters. To support the development of more sustainable sunscreen formulations, various filters in this range achieve high scores for eco-performance. And for sun care products that support and enhance skin’s natural properties, several filters are microbiome-friendly certified.

Caring hair care solutions

For consumers worldwide, hair is intrinsically linked with self-confidence and haircare is an essential part of looking and feeling healthy. However, for the 60 – 70% of the world’s population who have texture in their hair⁶ , such as waves, coils or curls, haircare can be complex. In addition to the challenges of combing difficulties, hair breakage and a greasy scalp, a typical care and styling regime can take up to three hours⁷ . Then there is the time and money spent finding products that work and are pleasant to use. ULocks has been specially developed to meet the needs of consumers with textured hair more effectively and to make their hair care routines easier and more pleasurable. This new haircare line features four products for a wash day routine and two for a refreshing routine, few days later. Combining an easy-step routine with vitamins, natural origin actives and a pleasant fragrance, it helps deliver deep care, with delightful sensations. In consumer tests⁸ , 56% of consumers could complete the washing routine in under an hour and 70% reported a noticeable feeling of hair hydration for five days, and ease of detangling.

Self-care with extra care for the planet

At dsm-firmenich, we recognise that an individual sense of wellness goes together with the health of wider society and the planet. By making our ingredients as environmentally friendly, ethical and sustainable as we can, throughout the value chain, and by developing concepts and targeted solutions relevant to different groups of society, our solutions can support brands in fostering healthy beauty at every level where it matters.

References:  

1 IFOP for Cosmetics Europe (2022). Cosmetics: Our Essentials for Daily Life, as quoted in What is the Value of Beauty? Report by the Value of Beauty Alliance  

2 IQVIA Consumer Health Global Insights  

3 IQVIA Consumer Health Under the Skin – Dermocosmetics 2022 Consumer Survey carried out in December 2021 as reported in the IQVIA white paper Under the Skin, Dermocosmetics 2022 p10  

4 IQVIA Consumer Health Under the Skin – Dermocosmetics 2022 Consumer Survey carried out in December 2021 as reported in the IQVIA white paper Under the Skin, Dermocosmetics 2022 p10 and p 24  

5 UV filters: exploring the benefits beyond sun protection, SOFW magazine  

6 https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2023/11/20/60- 70-of-the-world-s-population-has-texture-in-their-hair.-Innovating-inthe-underserved-textured-hair-care-market  

7 Firmenich 2023 – Global survey 3 countries - 1500 women  

8 External Consumer survey – 29 users of textured hair products with Type 4 hair (28 % with 4A hair type, 41 % 4B, and 31 % 4C) – average age between 26-35 years old – 1 month usage test – France – 2023