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photo: pikselstock/Shutterstock.com
photo: pikselstock/Shutterstock.com

For most men today, skincare is as natural as daily washing. While cosmetic care used to be considered unmanly, today there is fortunately a “cosmetic emancipation” of men. Never­theless, some myths still persist. Find out what’s really true about men and their skin.

photo: New Africa/Shutterstock.com
photo: New Africa/Shutterstock.com

Men should want and do want to be just as well-groomed as women. However, men often find it difficult to choose the right skincare products, as there are many false beliefs surrounding the physiology of men’s skin. These are the most common:

1. Men’s skin is much more robust

This cannot be said across the board. Although the studies on gender-specific differences are contradictory, a study conducted by the University of Hamburg on 300 healthy men and women showed that there are skin physiological differences between men and women1. The study, conducted in 2013, shows that transepidermal water loss, which in cosmetic science is considered an indicator of an unstable skin barrier, is higher in women than in men. However, the difference decreases with increasing age, which is presumably due to hormonal changes in women during the menopause. However, epidemiological studies suggest that women are more likely to suffer from sensitive skin than men2. A study of almost 1000 young Chinese men and women published in 2020 shows that the prevalence of self-reported sensitive facial skin is higher in women than in men. However, while more women suffered from various symptoms, the symptoms were more severe in men than in women3. Skin care products appeared to be the main cause of sensitive facial skin in both genders. However, as there are also ethnic differences with regard to sensitive skin, the data cannot be transferred 1:1 to Caucasian men and women. In general, it can be stated that the prevalence of sensitive skin is also steadily increasing in Germany, both in men and women4.

2. Men’s skin is more oily

This is true. Sebum synthesis is largely dependent on hormones, more precisely on androgens. Oestrogens, on the other hand, down-regulate the function of the sebaceous glands. This is why studies show that male skin has a significantly higher sebum content than women1,5,6. The difference becomes even greater with age. While the sebaceous gland activity of men stagnates or even increases with age, the sebum content of women begins to decrease from the age of 40. Scientists assume that this is the case. The lipid production of female skin is directly linked to the age-related decline in sex hormones.

3. Men’s skin doesn’t need much care

Not true. Men’s skin also needs moisturising care. This is because a high moisture content in the stratum corneum generally makes the skin appear softer, strengthens the skin barrier and thus protects against the penetration of harmful substances. The study by the University of Hamburg evaluated gender-specific differences in stratum corneum hydration, among other things1. The researchers found that men up to the age of 40 have significantly higher stratum corneum hydration than women of the same age. However, the value changes from the 50s onwards. While the value for women remains constant or even increases with age, the moisture content of men’s skin decreases significantly with age. Of course, the characteristics of the skin vary between people of different ages and can be influenced by body mass index and personal lifestyle, among other things7.

4. Men’s skin is thicker

This is true. Differences in collagen content in men and women were documented back in the 1979s. The English scientists found that the collagen content decreases with age and is significantly lower in women of all age groups than in men of the same age. As there is a direct correlation between collagen content and skin thickness, the scientists concluded that men’s skin is significantly thicker than women’s skin8. The results are confirmed by current data from 2022. A study from China was also able to evaluate a significant difference between the epidermal and dermal thickness of men’s and women’s skin9. According to the results of the study, men’s skin was only not thicker than women’s skin on the cheekbone and neck.

5. The beard protects

That’s right. A thick beard protects the skin from environmental toxins, similar to our head hair. For example, a thick beard means that less sunlight can reach the skin and cause less damage. This was confirmed by a study conducted by Australian researchers10. However, this only applies to a particularly thick and long beard. A 3-day or even 10-day beard is not sufficient sun protection. Even beards with holes or less dense areas do not provide sufficient protection. Men who wear a beard should therefore also use a sun protection product every day.

6. Men do not have cellulite

Not true. Men can also get cellulite, but it is rather rare. This is due to a higher collagen content and the resulting higher skin density in men. Furthermore, the collagen fibres in men are cross-linked in the connective tissue, which makes them many times more stable11. In addition, the total thickness of the gluteal subcutaneous fat layer is lower in men than in women12.

Conclusion

To summarise, it can be said that there are significant differences between men’s and women’s skin. Care products and care regimes for men therefore make perfect sense. In addition to the physiological differences, gender-specific demands on cosmetics also play a role in men’s skin care. For many men, cosmetics should be quick, simple and uncomplicated. Basically, skincare for men must be tailored to the individual skin condition. Ultimately, every skin needs adequate protection against external noxae such as fine dust or sunlight.


References: 
1 Luebberding S, Krueger N, Kerscher M. Skin physiology in men and women: in vivo evaluation of 300 people including TEWL, SC hydration, sebum content and skin surface pH. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Oct;35(5):477-83 

2 Berardesca E, Farage M, Maibach H. Sensitive skin: an overview. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Feb;35(1):2-8.  

3 Wang X, Su Y, Zheng B, Wen S, Liu D, Ye L, Yan Y, Elias PM, Yang B, Man MQ. Gender-related characterization of sensitive skin in normal young Chinese. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 May;19(5):1137-1142. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13123.  

4 Misery L, Bataille A, Talagas M, Le Gall-Ianotto C, Fouchard M, Huet F, Ficheux AS, Roudot AC, Fluhr JW, Brenaut E. Sensitive Skin Syndrome: A Low-Noise Small-Fiber Neuropathy Related to Environmental Factors? Front Pain Res (Lausanne). 2022 Mar 25;3:853491.  

5 Zhao C, Wang X, Mao Y, Xu Z, Sun Y, Mei X, Shi W. Variation of biophysical parameters of the skin with age, gender, and lifestyles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):249-255 

6 Man MQ, Xin SJ, Song SP, Cho SY, Zhang XJ, Tu CX, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Variation of skin surface pH, sebum content and stratum corneum hydration with age and gender in a large Chinese population. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2009;22(4):190-9.  

7 Dąbrowska AK, Spano F, Derler S, Adlhart C, Spencer ND, Rossi RM. The relationship between skin function, barrier properties, and body-dependent factors. Skin Res Technol. 2018 May;24(2):165-174.  

8 Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen and density. Br J Dermatol. 1975 Dec;93(6):639-43.  

9 Meng Y, Feng L, Shan J, Yuan Z, Jin L. Application of high-frequency ultrasound to assess facial skin thickness in association with gender, age, and BMI in healthy adults. BMC Med Imaging. 2022 Jun 16;22(1):113

10 Parisi AV, Turnbull DJ, Downs N, Smith D. Dosimetric investigation of the solar erythemal UV radiation protection provided by beards and moustaches. Radiat Prot Dosimetry. 2012 Jul;150(3):278-82. 

11 Rudolph C, Hladik C, Hamade H, Frank K, Kaminer MS, Hexsel D, Gotkin RH, Sadick NS, Green JB, Cotofana S. Structural Gender Dimorphism and the Biomechanics of the Gluteal Subcutaneous Tissue: Implications for the Pathophysiology of Cellulite. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2019 Apr;143(4):1077-1086. 

12 Frank K, Casabona G, Gotkin RH, Kaye KO, Lorenc PZ, Schenck TL, Lachman N, Green JB, Duran-Vega H, Cotofana S. Influence of Age, Sex, and Body Mass Index on the Thickness of the Gluteal Subcutaneous Fat: Implications for Safe Buttock Augmentation Procedures. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2019 Jul;144(1):83-92.

photo: Meike Streker
photo: Meike Streker

Dr Meike Streker 

Cosmetic scientist and expert for 
evidence-based cosmetics, Germany, 
www.meike-streker.com 

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