Sparkling sensations & more: COSSMA

As a product developer working in the beauty industry for over ten years, I’m often asked what my favourite beauty products are – and why they are so popular with me.

The second question – the why – is easy to answer, as it is a personal preference to a certain extent. But the first question, even without consciously realising it, has a lot to do with the texture of the product, its design and of course its feel.&nb

Consumers assess sensorial attributes subconsciously

A product’s major point of differentiation is its texture and its sensorial effects, but this is most of the time a subconscious assessment. For example, if you think of the last time you sampled a new product, you will remember smelling it first and then applying a small bit. Without even noticing, you will be making sensory assessments about how much you like or dislike the product’s fragrance, pick-up, immediate texture, play time, rub out and after-feel.

Linking texture to functionality

Carole Berning, consumer psychology, professor and consultant, said: “Sensory attributes have a major impact on consumer product perception and appeal across all five senses and every product category I’ve ever worked on. There are likely to be thousands of examples of how modifying a specific sensory attribute results in significantly altered product performance ratings as well in overall ratings and sales.”

According to Berning, texture is one of the crucial factors consumers rely on to determine the quality of a product, particularly in personal care. For example, the more dense or thick a formulation is, the more it is perceived as being moisturising, while lower viscosity is perceived as being “watered down” and less effective. Characteristics of lather also alter the perceived product performance, along dimensions such as creamy versus airy versus low sudsing for rinse-off products.

Consumers who consider sensory benefits to be important or very important in their choice of skin care products. Source: Datamonitor Consumer Surveys, April/May 2009

Mintel’s research, conducted in the UK, demonstrated the above effects, and even dug deeper, differentiating female vs male perceptions. Consumers indeed clearly link sensory product qualities to a product’s functionality:

3 in 5 UK female body care users think that a body care product is moisturising when it leaves the skin soft to the touch hours later. They are more likely than men to associate tactile benefits, such as softer skin, with moisturising (53% vs. 41%).
Men engage more with visible effects. For example, 46% of UK male body care users think a product is most moisturising when it absorbs quickly. Men are more likely than women to associate visual benefits, such as the skin looking shinier instantly (17% vs. 13%) or leaving a residue on the skin (10% vs. 6%) with performance.

However, from a technical and formulation point of view, the thickness or foaminess of a product doesn’t necessarily mean that it is more moisturising or cleansing. Those attributes are more related to the level of actives.

Formulators realise how consumer perception works and bear this in mind when developing a formula. Gajan Haas, Director of R&D at Twincraft Skincare, mentions “From the perspective of a brand-based R&D scientist, the aim is to achieve a product with an appealing feel, appearance and application. Texture plays a major role, and Korean Beauty brands are maximising on these features. Korean Beauty brands are marketing products with different sensorial and texture experiences, for example: a gel that breaks down and releases hydration onto skin plus a cooling/tingling sensation. These textures are developed by using different emollients and polymers in combination. Polymer technology has been continuously improving every year. So if a formulator chooses the right polymer in combination with the right emollients and solvents, s/he will be able to provide certain textures and sensorial effects.”

Texture’s importance in driving functionality

In addition to the sensorial attributes textures provide on a psychological and physical level, they are also the main driver of a product functionality.

A study on the influence of SPF and the quantity of sunscreen applied published in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics (August 2012) showed that an SPF15 can be more efficacious than an SPF30 when the former is applied properly onto the skin and the latter is not. This was demonstrated by comparing twenty commercially-available products with SPFs varying between 10 and 50+.

But what does it mean when the sunscreen is not applied properly (is that lower quantity, some other factors)? It simply means that the product does not feel nice enough on the skin to apply it properly.

Formulators are very well aware of this phenomenon.

Monica Advani, Senior Formulation Chemist at Cosmetic Solutions LLC commented: “This is where the feel of the product and the overall sensation experienced is key. And ultimately, the product must be efficacious. Texture is a key driver in all of these aspects. Overall, the benefits of texture are not only from a perspective of appeal, but function as well.”

When we like the sensory appeal, texture, and fragrance of a product, we will apply it better and more abundantly, thus improving the product’s benefits.

The texture business

From silky soft to watery and granular, a product’s true identity starts with its texture.

Looking at a product’s timeline from a marketing point of view, how does a product get noticed once it has been launched?

According to Datamonitor’s Consumer Surveys, most innovations go unnoticed, and they never have the opportunity to be discovered in the way that they should be. With that in mind, it is all the more important for brands to differentiate themselves and engage with consumers.

According to industry expert Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS), sensory experimentation is the primary purchasing driver in beauty. She explains that “with increasing competition in this sector, sensory now matters more than ever to help a consumer really fall in love with every aspect of your product. What consumers can touch, smell, and see about a product matters before and, in the long run, often as much as how well a product works. With so many products, and so much choice focussed on sensory, it is important to captivate your target market from that very first touch through to everyday use. This is of equal importance now as how well the product works!”

Datamonitor also looked at the importance of sensory product benefits in the choice of skin care products across various countries.

Understanding how to reinforce the connection between product and consumer is key to driving more experimentation and therefore product purchase. It is important to enhance the connection between the product and users, and drive experimentation through multi-sensory experience, including textures and scents, packaging and digital tools.

According to Mintel, the emergence of multi-sensory experiences in the beauty market increasingly engages the consumer with the product. A connection between product and consumer builds an emotional bond to create a deeper, more memorable experience for consumers. Unusual textures, mood changing fragrances and interactive packaging help to draw users closer to their products.

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