Focused skin care with beads: COSSMA

Solid forms | The trend towards solid forms for cosmetic and personal care products is gaining momentum. Combining these formulations with skin microbiome-friendly formulations poses a particular challenge for the development of new products. Dr Nora Schiemann explains the role that beads can play in this.

Several cosmetics experts share the opinion that the least impact cosmetics can have on the natural microbiome of the skin is best. Especially when it comes to applications which imply a long contact with the skin, the natural microbiome should not be compromised too much. However, there are no studies available which demonstrate this statement. It is just logical, that least impact is the best, which is in line with the spirit of the age, that nature works best and least impact on natural balance is the goal.

One might conclude that cosmetics should support the natural functions of the skin at best, but not harm the functions of the skin. In this context we should be always aware that the microbiome is an essential part of the skin barrier function1.

Emerging trend: Solid product forms

With the analysis of new product launches a significant part is about solid product forms2. In this context, solid bar formats are the natural place to start. A much more concentrated formulation in terms of ingredients, solid formats can have a lower cost per use than traditional water-based formats, particularly in the haircare and bath or shower categories.

Packaging of solid bars can provide further sustainable benefits, using biodegradable cardboard as opposed to the large plastic container required to house liquid shampoo.

Mintel recommends that brands think more broadly when entering the waterless category than just eliminating water from the product. The true impact will come from how that product is used by the consumer, and more importantly, what is left over after the product is used up. Boosting a solid product form works very well with oil soluble ingredients and particles. However, these ingredients should support the skin barrier and not compromise the skin microbiome. A special product concept can provide a lot of inspiration3,4.

The basis for cream beads

The formula design comprises biodegradable ingredients derived from nature, and which can be stored in boxes instead of jars. A balanced ratio of waxes, emollients, water, and actives, together with a water in oil emulsifier blend, is important to provide great flexibility in applications, which are not limited to skin care only. Even applications for hair care and sun care can be created based on this concept.

Although there is a big part of socalled waterless products, in many circumstances it is important to have a given amount water in the product, since there are many watersoluble active ingredients which are beneficial in beauty care and even more, water adds natural moisturisation for immediate effects. A good compromise needs to be found to create something which can be stored at home, but also in any small box that can be taken to any place.

Trials with different combinations of waxes, lipids, and watery phases together with a complex emulsifier resulted in successful combinations of beads, which can be modified according to their needs. The balance between the selected waxes is crucial in obtaining the desired ball to cream beads.

The given level of water is sufficient to still contain effective water-soluble actives and provide some moisture, especially when thinking about hair applications, which are possibly based on the same frame formula, which shows primarily applications in skin care.

Composition

It is possible to add various colours and pigments, as well as functional actives and a broad variety of water and oil soluble actives. Due to its solid state, the beads can effectively take loads of functional particles, which easily boost solid forms.

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoletate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite is a key ingredient5. This emulsifier forms a W/O emulsion providing a light texture. It is known for its application in sun care formulation containing mineral sunscreens. However, there are also other emulsifiers, e.g., the Cosmos-compliant Polyglyceryl-10 Heptahydroxystearate with HLB 5.9, available as Decaglyn 7-HS6.

Each bead melts in the palm of the hand and turns into a light and non-greasy cream, thanks to Triheptanoin a 100% naturally derived emollient7,8. Two beads could offer the ideal dose for a good hydration of the hands.

Also, the combination of a gelling wax (sunflower wax double refined) and a non-gelling one (candelilla wax) help to thicken the formula and allow maintenance of the beads form while offering a good sensoriality.

Oil soluble actives as well as water soluble actives can be added, but also functional particles. Depending on selection of actives and the colour, a naturality index of almost 1 is possible.

The application can be broad, since the concept can be transferred from skin care with all aspects such as facial and neck applications, hand, and feet to hair care, but also to cleansing. The use in sun care is possible, however more in pre and after care. The addition of sunscreens is possible, however for sun protection, a considerable amount of sunscreens need to be spread on the body. To realise the concept a hot process at up to 80°C is necessary. This can be a challenge for liquid product manufacturers, but for everybody making classic emulsions, the process can be easily adapted. Anadditional requirement is the hot fill at 70-75°C.

Special booster

Alpine moor is a well-known source for moor treatments. A very special peat that contains valuable humic acids, fulvic acid and ulmic acid, and which has multiple benefits9.

The selected peat extract from alpine healing moor is mild to the skin microbiome, which means at a concentration of 1% in a cosmetic formula, there is negligible impact on the skin microbiome.

Naturally present microorganisms (major aerobic vorganisms of the sin care microbiome cultivated on a petri dish), which are an essential part of the skin barrier, are not being disturbed by this ingredient10.

The peat extract provides several benefits, which have been proven in a panel test:

immediate and preventive soothing effect by anti-stinging test and capsaicin test
anti-acne effect, which helps to refine the skin
visible anti-eye bag and anti-wrinkle effect

For the latter the peat extract had been tested for anti-ageing effects in a cream base (at 1.5% level) on 22 volunteers (at an average age of 56) for 28 days. Skin elasticity could be improved, measured by a cutometer, skin hydration could be improved by 6%, based on a corneometer measurement, as well as the radiance of the eyes, based on clinical evaluation and wrinkles could be reduced.

The result is a moor application for intense skin care, e.g., night cream, which can be applied targeted to small spots and to specific areas.

It is easy to see that particles can do more than just being filling material or maybe colourful aesthetics. Particles are well suited to be added in solid forms, containing no water or less water.

Other particles with proven efficacy in improving and regenerating the skin barrier, like kaolin-types11 or naturally derived fullerene12 can further boost the effects of this application, without compromising the skin microbiome in any way.

Conclusion

The shown application of a solid cream, which can be applied on discrete parts of the skin, provides possibilities to have the least impact on the skin microbiome but also helps to regenerate the skin and its barrier function with natural ingredients, especially functional particles.

Of course, these particles can also boost the performance of water free formulae, targeting sensitive skin.

References:

1 Nora Schiemann: Clean and Green Chemistry, COSSMA 10/2020, p. 28 ff

2 Mintel GNPD

3 IMCD Personal Care Virtual Visitor Seminar, June 2021

4 Sepawa Award 2021: 2. Prize for Beauty salon in a Pill Box – Finger Beauty

5 Nikkomulse WO-NS from Nikko Group

6 Decaglyn from Nikko Group

7 Natural Origin Index: 1, according to ISO 16128

8 Sustoleo MCT from Inolex Inc.

9 AHE Presentation from Premium Organic

10 According to Premium Organic