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photo: beton studio/Shutterstock.com
photo: beton studio/Shutterstock.com

You have probably noticed an influx of hemp and cannabidiol ingredients in cosmetic products and marketing. Just why is it so popular, what skin benefits does it have, and how is it regulated? This article acesses the world of CBD and hemp.

There are some important distinctions we need to make between these three classifications. 

They are all technically from the plant, Cannabis sativa. This plant is naturally rich in cannabinols, of which two are widely known: tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and cannabidiol (CBD). 

CBD is present in the leaves, flowers and stalks of hemp and marijuana plants; however marijuana is distinguishable as a drug, and contains THC to get a user ‘high’. Hemp is grown for industrial uses, and contains ≤0.3% THC by weight. Hemp seeds can be used to obtain CBD-free hemp oil; a requirement for cosmetics in some regions. 

Does CBD have benefits in cosmetics? 

There is some evidence to show that CBD can have anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin, which means when used in cosmetic formulas, it can provide soothing and moisturising benefits for sensitive skin and help reduce redness. It may also help reduce ‘inflam-aging’, for anti-ageing and skin smoothing benefits. Conversely, it has also been shown to control excess sebum secretion and control acne (both through sebum control and anti-inflammatory benefits).

Hemp seed oil without CBD present is still rich in omega fatty acids, so still has moisture protective and skin smoothing benefits when used in cosmetic formulas. 

Is CBD allowed in cosmetic formulas?

As usual, regulations are constantly changing over CBD and hemp in order to protect the integrity of cosmetic products and consumer safety. Here is the current regulatory status of CBD in various countries as at August, 2023.

Can you promote CBD in cosmetic 
marketing?

First, you must make sure that the form of hemp oil you intend to use complies with your local country regulations. If CBD is not permitted in your region then it makes sense you can’t use it in a cosmetic formula nor market it in the finished product. 

Even where you have used CBD with proven anti-inflammatory benefits, remember that you can’t make physiological claims about a cosmetic product. This means your claims would need to relate to moisturising dry or sensitive skin or reduce the appearance of redness, instead of the term ‘anti-inflammatory.’ 

It is also important to remember that even where CBD and hemp oil is permitted, the cosmetic product should not be marketed to imply it has any sort of medicinal or recreational effects, or cause confusion about CBD or THC content.

graphic: Personal  Care Science
graphic: Personal Care Science

Table 1: Regulations for CBD

What are some innovative 
hemp materials?

There are some exciting hemp and CBD cosmetic ingredients now available – just remember to cross check the items you are interested in below with your local country regulations as some may not be permitted for use in your region. I’ve listed in bold the cosmetic ingredients that do not contain CBD; and underlined those the cosmetic ingredients with CBD, to help you navigate the innovations easily. 

  • Hemp oil without CBD – still contains omega fatty acids with known skin benefits. 
  • Hemp oil with CBD – anti-inflammatory and sebum regulating benefits.
  • BioChemica CBD Hemp Butter (Hallstar) – contain a standardised amount of CBD for outstanding anti-inflammatory, skin smoothing and hydrating benefits.
  • Hemp seed Herbasol extract (Lipoid Kosmetik) – upcycled extract with soothing, antioxidant and moisturising benefits.
  • Hemp Tein Z NPNF (Tri-K) – a hydrolysed hemp seed extract without CBD, with protein benefits for skin and hair.
  • Lipobeads (Vantage) – encapsulated hemp seed oil for a dazzling visual effect; they have a CBD-free version (Lipobead Bronze) and a version containing CBD (Lipobead Leaf Green with CBD) – to suit all country requirements!
  • Lipobelle PinoC (Mibelle Biochemistry) – encapsulated oil and leaf extract containing CBD to improve skin tone, smooth the skin and relax facial tension and wrinkles.
  • Kannabia Sense (Vyrtus Biotech) – cannabis stem cells without CBD that works with the skin microbiota to promote positive emotions, smooth wrinkles, hydrate the skin and make it glow. 

Is there a future for hemp and CBD in cosmetics?

Undoubtedly – yes! There is strong consumer appeal for products containing hemp in general, not just in the personal care industry. 

It is an exciting area for innovation where new cosmetic uses are proven or further established with clinical efficacy; and brands are quick to get to market with any trending innovation. When its as hotly debated as CBD it makes it even more exciting to bring out a product with proof behind its benefits – just make sure you check your local country regulations carefully to make sure you stay up to date and comply.

photo: author
photo: author

Belinda Carli 

Director of the Institute of 
Personal Care Science, ­
Brisbane, Australia, 
www.personalcarescience.com.au 

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