Think sustainable

When considering sustainability, the traditional approach involved reducing impacts. Cosmetic brands would look at re-formulating with green(er) ingredients, lower plastic and material use, as well as undertaking programmes to reduce carbon emissions, energy use, waste, etc. Such measures would involve making the same products with lower environmental impact. Companies would communicate how they have become greener by undertaking such measures. However, there was no innovation as companies were preoccupied on reducing emissions and lowering impacts. 

Change and Innovation 

There has been a change in the last few years. We are seeing innovation in new sustainable products, novel sources of ingredients, and new packaging formats. 

The waterless cosmetics segment is based on innovation. Companies are developing shampoo bars, solid moisturisers, cream bars, sheet masks & related products. Ethique, SBTRCT and Pinch of Colour are some of the brands specialising in such products. Waterless cosmetics have reduced environmental footprint as they have less packaging, lower transportation and distribution costs, and can be self-preserving. 

Upcycling involves innovation in terms of new cosmetic ingredients. Upcycling involves the valorisation of waste materials for new purposes. Fruit kernels, vegetable seeds, and coffee grounds are some of the waste materials making their way from the food industry into cosmetic applications. Last December, Dr. Craft launched a body scrub containing upcycled avocado seeds in place of plastic microbeads. O’right and Upcircle Beauty are beauty brands that have product ranges based on upcycled food ingredients. 

New sources of upcycled ingredients are emerging. The Finnish start-up Innomost is making cosmetic ingredients from birch bark, whilst the American firm Carbonwave has made a natural emulsifier by upcycling seaweed. Sargassum seaweed has been befouling beaches in Cancun (Mexico) and the Caribbean. The Allwell Beauty brand is using upcycled maple residue in its skin care products. 

New packaging ways

Consumer opposition to single-use plastics is encouraging brands to create innovative packaging formats. Many brands are trying to switch to sustainable packaging or greener materials. For instance, L’Oreal launched its Seed Phytonutrients range in novel packaging in 2018. The skin care and hair care products are housed in a paper-based bottle that is recycled, recyclable, and compostable. 

The Finnish company Sulapac is making green packaging materials from wood chips. Starting from green alternatives to plastic jars, it now produces a range of bio-based materials that mimic plastics. In March, it launched Sulapac Luxe to replace hard plastics like ABS. Chanel has been using the company’s bio-based cap in its Les Eaux de Chanel perfumes. Schwan Cosmetics and Lumene are also using Sulapac packaging materials. 

There is also a surge in refillable packaging. Although this is not innovative itself, we are seeing new business models / packaging formats. Terracycle operates its Loop platform that enables cosmetics and other fast moving consumer goods to be housed in refillable packaging. Labelled the circular reuse platform, Loop works with cosmetic companies & retailers so consumers can return product packaging for re-use. Initially launched in the US, the reuse platform has spread to Europe, Asia and Australasia. 

The sustainable deodorants sector is embracing refillables. Fussy and Wild Cosmetics are UK brands that have launched sustainable deodorants in refillable packaging. Fussy deodorants have clean formulations and are housed in plastic-free compostable packaging; the products are marketed as the ‘next generation’ deodorants.

Lush is innovating by using no packaging. The ethical cosmetics brand now sells over 60 percent of its products without packaging. It launched its Naked Slap Stick foundations in 2018, and now has concealers, lipstick and mascara. Its Naked mascara was New Sustainable Product winner at last year’s Sustainable Beauty Awards. 

Conclusion

New sustainable products are being launched in the beauty industry, however their success will depend on customer behaviour. Shoppers will only buy novel products if they are convinced of their sustainability credentials. Consumers also need to be informed on how to use waterless products, what packaging to recycle, where and how to refill. Innovation may be creating new sustainable products, however are consumers being educated about them?