Paving the way for eco-friendly suncare

Achieving EU Ecolabel certification can be a clear differentiator in the marketplace. However, as the label only applies to finished products, all the individual ingredients or substances, as well as factors like packaging, must meet the required standards. With this in mind, at dsm-firmenich we have developed several proprietary tools to support brand owners and formulators using UV filters in their sun care products — all of which work alongside the EU Ecolabel framework.
The dsm-firmenich Sunscreen Optimizer 2.0™ is a free virtual laboratory that formulators can access to test the performance of new sunscreen formulations or to optimise existing compositions at the project stage. This integrated platform provides developers with key efficacy estimations, such as SPF and UVA protection performance for different UV filter combinations. It also incorporates a new eco-scoring approach which we have devised to support the development of effective sun care products that also meet key environmental and sustainability criteria such as those for the EU Ecolabel. As well as offering an effective way to demonstrate that sun protection can be more sustainable, our scoring system can provide consumers with meaningful information on the environmental impact of sunscreen products.

Individual UV filters are analysed, using standardised eco-toxicological data to generate an individual Environmental Impact (EI) score. The parameters for these EI scores are based on the proven and widely accepted PBT assessment, where P stands for persistence, B for bioaccumulation and T for toxicity to fish, invertebrates, algae and micro-organisms. Currently, each UV filter is given a score out of 100 based on these parameters.
Users can then assess the combined impact a sunscreen featuring multiple UV filters in given concentrations would have on the environment.
 To generate an eco-label and corresponding logo, this overall environmental impact score can then be benchmarked against a virtual market average for a given SPF range. The tool uses the eight SPF classes defined in the EU (6, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 50, 50+) and has generated a standardised distribution of product Environmental Impact scores for each one. The medians of these distributions are used as points of comparison for the eco-labels and the classification ranges from A−G, with A being the best and G the weakest.
As they are classed as individual ingredients, our PARSOL® UV filters cannot be awarded the EU Ecolabel directly. However, following a compliance assessment, several filters in our portfolio can be incorporated into formulations suitable for EU Ecolabel designation. Our latest UVA absorber, PARSOL® DHHB can help provide broadband protection (when combined with effective UVB filters), is compatible with zinc and iron oxides, and also achieves a high ecoscore. PARSOL® EHT scores highly for both UVB absorption and eco-friendliness. PARSOL® 1789 offers an excellent eco-profile and top-level UVA protection and PARSOL® Shield helps deliver high UVB and UVA protection at lower concentrations, for an efficient way to develop more sustainable formulations.
Providing more environmentally friendly UV filters and tools for eco-scoring UV filter combinations are just some of the ways dsm-firmenich is helping developers work within frameworks like the EU Ecolabel and working to shape an industry committed to creating effective, environmentally conscious sunscreens.

Further Reading
A Novel, Benchmark-Centered, Eco-Impact Rating System for Sunscreens and Sunscreen Formulation Design, Front. Environ. Sci., 09 December 2021, Sec. Toxicology, Pollution and the Environment, Volume 9 - 2021  https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2021.727404

New Method for Connecting Sunscreens with Consumers via a Relative Eco-score, Sofwjournal 11/21 | 147 |

The EU Ecolabel: a market differentiator for eco-friendly sun care products DSM’s eco-score for consumer awareness of environmentally friendly sunscreen