Designed to fit new Standards

Why are microplastics used for cosmetic products? What Are their purpose?

Ariane Saiko: Microplastics became a popular ingredient in the beauty industry about 15 years ago because they achieve excellent results. Most importantly, they improve the sensorial quality and visually conceal wrinkles. Some of these tiny plastic particles also create a shimmering finish or make products last longer on the skin. Others help to stabilise formulations or influence the texture, that is how creamy or smooth a cream or lotion feels. Since they are so versatile, they became such a widely used ingredient in many skincare and cosmetic products. We also used microplastics particles until our product changeover.

Why is it necessary to abstain from microplastics in cosmetic products?

Katrin Steinbach: Microplastics can pose a threat to the environment when they enter the environmental cycle through wastewater. Plastic particles are not biodegradable and persist in the environment for a long time. 

This way they can harm marine life and potentially enter the food chain, endangering our health and that of the planet. In 2015, the German Federal Environment Agency warned of risks to the environment from the use of plastic particles in skincare products such as creams, peelings, shower gels and shampoos. Three years later, Cosmetics Europe, the European umbrella organisation of the cosmetics industry, issued a recommendation to stop using solid, non-biodegradable plastic particles in wash-off products. Although the voluntary commitment did not apply to manufacturers of colour cosmetics, we at cosnova understood we had to act and started to find alternative ingredients and released our first new products without microplastic particles in 2020. 

What makes this process so difficult and why is it still worth it?

Ariane Saiko: Since a 1:1 replacement does not exist, each formula has to be adapted. We had to analyse each individual texture and often develop a new one from scratch. Above all, we had to find suitable alternatives to microplastics. Depending on the product, it took between six months and two and a half years to create the perfect formulation without plastic particles but the same product performance our consumers love so much. It was a very time-consuming, but important process! A dedicated project team took care of phasing-out microplastic particles from our products. In Germany, around 1,000 tonnes of microplastics enter the environment through wastewater every year just from washing off cosmetics and cleaning agents. For us, every particle is one too many: In 2019 we started to develop new products without microplastics, and since March 2023, all products from our Essence and Catrice brands are completely free of microplastic particles. 

What alternatives to microplastics are there? 

Ariane Saiko: In recent years, many alternatives have been developed. For us, the best choice turned out to be natural substances such as starch from corn, rice, or tapioca are particularly suitable alternatives. Tapioca is derived from the cassava-root.

How can companies stick to their ­sustainability claims and still be ­capable of competing?

Katrin Steinbach: We are convinced that in the future, companies will have to stick to their sustainability claims, not only to keep their “licence to operate”, but also to gain an advantage and to meet the expectations of their consumers. Sustainability is becoming increasingly important to many consumers. The products should be free of questionable ingredients − and also be produced without microplastic particles. Consumer awareness is increasing the pressure on companies, and previous standards must be rethought and further developed. And that is exactly the right way to go. You must achieve a balance between sustainability and competitiveness by integrating sustainable practices into core business strategies, driving innovation, engaging consumers, and collaborating with stakeholders across the value chain. The most important basis for meeting sustainability goals is data. Only if we know the impact of our products and processes in detail can we set realistic goals and work efficiently to achieve them.