Upcycled avocado

An active ingredient rich in polyphenols, extracted from sustainably sourced avocado from Peru, has been on the market for two years to reduce dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.

The whole fruit (skin, pulp, and core) are sliced, dehydrated then pressed. On the one hand, there is obtained avocado oil from which esters are extracted and on the other hand a cake from which polyphenols and peptides are extracted. So, 100% of the avocado is valued.

To sum up, the avocado is upcycled not once, but twice: firstly, they only use avocados that are unsuitable for the food industry and secondly, they use a by-product of the pharmaceutical industry to develop active ingredients. Thanks to upcycling, this limits the impact on the environment by avoiding the creation of new cultures and the collection of other plant sources.

Tired eye areas

Restless sleep, stress, hectic lifestyle, and ageing are amongst the many factors that cause puffiness, dark circles, and other imperfections to appear in the fragile eye contour area. 

The polyphenols of the active ingredient act on the microcirculation, regulate pigmentation, and reduce fatty deposits. They harmonise the complexion, conferring it a natural glow. 

Physiologically-speaking, microcirculation, hyperpig-mentation, and fatty deposit are described as the three main causes behind the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes:

Microcirculation: superficial micro-vascularisation in the eye area is conducive to blood stagnation (or congestion) and dilatation, responsible for oedema, which is characterised by the collection of fluid in the tissue.

Hyperpigmentation in the periorbital area, associated with the accumulation of melanin, is believed to be related to the presence of melanin in the dermal macrophages and to pigment incontinence¹. The inflammatory response could also encourage hyperpigmentation.

Bags are characterised even more by fluid collection and protrusion of fatty tissue in particular, which may be made worse by weakening of the septum as we age².

The effect of avocado polyphenols has been demonstrated by various in-vitro biological models on the causes behind the formation of dark circles and bags under the eyes. These results were confirmed by two clinical studies which showed an effect from this active ingredient which corrected the appearance of dark circles and bags under the eyes.

Activity on microcirculation

The activity on microcirculation is demonstrating vasoconstrictor and decongestant potential for minimising stasis and vasodilatation, via:

• Inhibition of production of chemotactic inflammatory mediators involved in the formation of oedema (PGE2, IL8, LTB4); 
• Inhibition of vascular and lymphatic permeability; and
• Stimulation of the angiotensin-converting enzyme

The ACE (Angiotensin Converting Enzyme) is responsible for the extracellular conversion of Angiotensin I into Angiotensin II, a powerful vasoconstrictor. Avocado polyphenols significantly stimulated the enzyme activity of the angiotensin-converting enzyme in a dose-dependent manner. 

This result is in favour of a vasoconstrictive and decongestant effect.

Inhibitory activity on melanogenesis

The potential depigmenting effect of avocado polyphenols was studied in two separate models, one evaluating melanin production in melanocytes, and one evaluating the enzyme activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis.

The avocado polyphenols significantly inhibited melanin production by melanocytes stimulated by NDP-MSH and significantly inhibited the enzyme activity of tyrosinase in a dose-dependent manner. These results are in favour of de-pigmenting potential.

Figure 3 shows the effect of the active ingredient on the melanin production and tyrosinase enzyme activity by melanocytes. Melanin dosage: melanocytes incubated for ten days with NDP-MSH & Kojic acid (positive reference) or Avocado polyphenols at 0.5%. 

Tyrosinase activity: tyrosine extracted from melanocytes incubated ten minutes with avocado polyphenols at 0.5% or kojic acid. The enzyme substrate was then added and after one hour’s incubation tyrosinase activity was evaluated

Lipolytic activity 

Adipocytes, the main cells in human adipose tissue, are specialised in the storage of lipids and are the body’s main energy store.

They use their energy reserves by hydrolysing the triglycerides stored under the effect of lipases. The triglycerides stored in the adipose tissue are hydrolysed into fatty acids and glycerol. The fatty acids thus released in the blood can be used by the other tissues for energy purposes. The lipolysis process is seen in a decrease in adipocyte diameter.

The effect of avocado polyphenols on adipocyte lipolysis was evaluated directly by assaying the glycerol released during hydrolysis of trigly­cerides stored in human mature adipocytes, and indirectly by measuring adipocyte diameter.

The avocado polyphenols induced a significant increase of +45% in lipolysis in the mature adipocytes and a significant decrease in adipocyte diameter compared to the reference condition. These effects confirm the stimulating potential of lipolysis.

Figure 4 shows the effects of mature adipocytes were treated for four hours with Avocado polyphenols at 0.25% or Forskolin. The glycerol released by adipocyte lipolysis was assayed in the culture media and adipocyte diameters were determined using a cell size counter.

Activity on the dermal matrix

Avocado polyphenols effect on the dermal matrix was evaluated by studying the gene expression of Collagen I and Elastin, two main components of the dermis, by fibroblasts.

The polyphenols at 0.05% incubated 24 hours on fibroblasts induced a significant increase of 58%3 in collagen I and +94%4 elastin gene expression. These results are in favour of a redensifying effect on the dermal matrix.

Clinical studies

Double-blind clinical studies (active ingredient vs. placebo) confirmed the in-vitro results. The subjects applied the cream con-taining 0.1% of the active ingredient or the placebo twice a day for 28 days. 

Two panels were recruited:

• 21 women presenting vascular dark circles under the eyes and dull complexion for the study of avocado polyphenols effect on dark circles.
• 23 women presenting bags under the eyes and dull complexion for the study of avocado polyphenols effect on bags.

The panels were pooled for the complexion radiance evaluation (n=44 subjects).

The clinical studies demonstrated:

• A 10% reduction in the number of dark spots under the eye and a 21% reduction in their surface area after 28 days, measured on photographs using a skin analysis device5.
• A 12.5% reduction in the volume of puffiness.
• A dark circle ITA (Individual Typology Angle): +40% after 28 days’ application (one shade lighter) / a complexion ITA: +8% after 28 days.

figure 6: Efficacy of the active ingredient on eye bags & complexion (D0 vs **p<0.01 *** p<0.001 – Student t test) 

References:

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1. Matsui et al. Physiological and lifestyle factors contributing to risk and severity of peri-orbital dark circles in the Brazilian population. An Bras Dermatol. 2015; 90(4):494-503.
2. Goldberg et al. What causes eyelid bags? Analysis of 114 consecutive patients. Plast. Reconstr. Surg. 2005;115: 1395-1402.
3. *p<0.05 vs. Control
4. **p<0.01 vs Control
5. Visia-CR