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photo: Oksana Mizina/Shutterstock.com
photo: Oksana Mizina/Shutterstock.com

Simply adding organic ingredients to a formula doesn’t necessarily make them organic. These guidelines help to find out if a formulation truly can be seen as organic and what can be done to create more organic formulas from the start.

Formulating natural cosmetics is such a strong trend that many cosmetic brands are compelled to use natural and organic ingredients where possible. It often surprises people to find out that simply adding a few organic ingredients to your cosmetic formulas does not make them organic, and there are unfortunately several cosmetic brands that are touting ‘organic’ either in their product name or marketing claims when their formulas may in fact not be as natural or organic as they make out. Sometimes, cosmetic brand managers and formulators may not be aware when they are making false claims. Read on to see if your cosmetic formulas are truly organic…

Truly organic formulas should be certified

To be certified organic, cosmetic formulas need to meet strict criteria over the minimum organic content they contain, and they must use organic versions of ingredients where they exist. If your cosmetic formula is truly organic, then having it certified is an important step to take to prove to your consumer that you have complied with organic certification rules and taken the extra effort to validate the organic status of your cosmetic formula. It is also helpful for consumers to see organic certification logos on cosmetic products so they can make informed purchasing decisions.

Even certified organic formulas may contain synthetic additives

Did you know that even certified organic cosmetic formulas can, in many cases, contain up to 2% petrochemical moieties; and often contain synthetic preservatives? Under popular certifier rules, these inputs are permitted in certain product types, and where the preservatives are specifically permitted because their components are nature identical (although synthetically produced for commercial reasons). While this is allowed by certain certifiers, and your cosmetic formula can still be certified organic using their rules, it is important to note that such a cosmetic formula should not mislead by suggesting it is 100% natural and organic. Look closely at your preservatives and check the source of all starting materials before making percentage claims. 

Sunscreens and mineral foundations are not natural or organic

Even though they are permitted (within limits) in certified organic formulas, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxides undergo synthetic processing steps that means they are no longer considered all natural. And of course, they are most certainly not classified as organic ingredients. Even where a cosmetic formula using these ingredients has been certified as organic, it doesn’t mean these components are organic – or even natural! So again, be careful with any claims made about the product – these types of cosmetic formulas may be certified organic but their components are most definitely not. 

Use organic versions of plant derived ingredients where they exist

If you are trying to create organic formulas, then you should be using the organic version of all plant materials where they exist: organic plant extracts, organic plant oils and organic essential oils. This can add to the cost of your product formulation considerably, and can cause logistical issues particularly where organic supply is limited, but using the organic version of any plant derived ingredients is essential when formulating organic cosmetics. Your consumers will not only expect it, but when it comes to certification, you’ll need to demonstrate the use of organic versions of these materials to a certifier too.

photo: Irina Kvyatkovskaya /Shutterstock.com
photo: Irina Kvyatkovskaya /Shutterstock.com

Use naturally derived functional ingredients

Since formulating natural cosmetics is now so popular, and has been such a big trend for so many years, there are fortunately a lot of naturally derived functional ingredients available. Naturally derived cosmetic ingredients are those which have come from only natural starting stocks, and have been through approved processing steps, such as fermentation, hydrogenation, fractionation and esterification, to yield the end product. When choosing your emulsifiers and surfactants, obtain processing flow charts from suppliers to confirm the natural status of your selected ingredients before using them in your organic formula. If a synthetic additive has been used at the start or added at any step in the processing method, check to make sure you are allowed to use that ingredient in a certified organic product and it’s petrochemical content to see if you will exceed limits. When proceeding to organic certification, the certifier will often ask for this information also, so it makes sense to obtain it early in the development process to avoid hiccups with certification later. 

Double check the final cosmetic formula

Once you have created the cosmetic formula, make sure you do a double check of all ingredients: their starting sources, if organic versions exist, and if they are permitted to be used by certifiers. As a final step, you’ll also need to make sure your cosmetic formula is produced by a certified organic manufacturer. Creating organic cosmetic formulas that perform as well as their natural or synthetic counterparts can be a rewarding challenge… just be sure it truly is what you are claiming it to be.

Belinda Carli

Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, Brisbane, Australia,

www.personalcarescience.com.au

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