The power of Mexican arnica

Heterotheca inuloides is locally known as Mexican arnica due to its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing traditional uses. Traditionally, it was also called “Cuateteco” and it was highly valued for its medicinal properties. 

In vitro and in vivo tests confirmed its already known anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and displayed a wide range of other interesting activities.

Cherishing genetic inheritance

The active ingredient which, is based on Heterotheca inuloides1, triggers multiple endogenous mechanisms of the main epidermal and dermal cells by selectively modulating the gene expression of several elements related with skin ageing.

Its broad-spectrum benefits come as a result of its remarkable multiple actions on both keratinocytes and fibroblasts, directly involved in epidermal hydration, microbiota regulation, inflammation, communication with melanocytes, cell senescence, oxidative stress, extracellular matrix and growth factors. All these actions were assessed thanks to three intense studies:

Figure 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Results of the gene expression assessment, where the following genes’ transcription was regulated with the active: Ceramide synthase 3 (CERS3), Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1), Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs): β-defensin-2 (DEFB4A) and β-defensin-3 (DEFB103); Interleukin 8 (CXCL8), Endothelin 1 (EDN1), Mitochondrial transcription factor A (TFAM), Keratin 14 (KER14), Heme-Oxygenase 1 (HMOX1), Catalase (CAT), Fibroblast Growth Factor 7 (FGF7), Matrix Metalloproteinase 3 (MMP-3) and the senescence Associated Secretory Phenotype (SASP), which entail a striking increase of pro-inflammatory cytokines: IL6, IL1β, IL8, GRO1, MCP1 and G-CSF.

Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs) in vitro determination:

In this test, Niacinamide was used as a multifunctional reference in the market. The results of this assay showed that the active importantly (and significantly) prevented the formation of AGEs at the three tested doses (0.1%, 0.2% and 0.4%). In all cases, the anti-glycation activity was above 50%, achieving a remarkable 70.1% reduction in AGEs even at the lowest dose.

Tests in vivo: Inclusive multifunctionality

All in vivo assessments were performed on a multi-ethnic panel of 71 female and male volunteers that included Caucasian, African, Asian and Latino backgrounds.

These volunteers applied a placebo-controlled formulation with 2% of the active ingredient to the hemiface, morning and night, for 56 days. Measurements were taken on D0, D14, D28 and D56.

Positive trends for all the measured parameters were already seen after only 14 days of treatment, and the improvements continued to strengthen up to D56, reaching statistical significance for all parameters (p<0.05) and empirically proving that the active not only enhances the proper functioning of the skin, but also results in visibly moisturised, smoother and firmer skin. Periocular wrinkles are visibly reduced, and the skin tone becomes more uniform. 

More specifically, the features and parameters measured include:

• +12.8% Hydration
• -9.3% TEWL
• +5.9% Elasticity
• +9.7% Firmness
• -7.3% Wrinkles
• -13.6% Redness
• +22% Skin Glow

Furthermore, to better study the effect on skin firmness, the scientists were able to create – for the first time on firmness – coloured facial mapping that allowed the positive evolution of the global firming effect on the face to be visualised.

Plus, thanks to its anti-inflammatory profile, it can help prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) processes, which is an inductor of skin redness. Also by reducing skin inflammatory reactions and redness, the active will contribute to limiting inflammageing effects and therefore preventing their negative repercussion on skin ageing processes.

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