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photo: marinafrost/Shutterstock.com
photo: marinafrost/Shutterstock.com

Looking for a flawless complexion, customers want products with long-term benefits, but also immediate effects. Powders creating a soft focus, playing with reflections or offering matifying effects can make irregularities and optical defects visually disappear immediately.

The high-definition selfie is revolutionising make-up routines as it reveals every irregularity of the skin. Customers now want their skin to be picture perfect at any time of day. They are looking for a flawless complexion! They want skin care products that treat the skin with long-term effects, but they always want to see immediate results. Those can be easily created with a blur. This product is made of powder blends which bring a soft-focus effect and smoothes skin irregularities. Immediate results can also be achieved by playing with reflections, shadows and light. New application techniques such as contouring or strobing are based on this principle. On top of colour, make-up products need mattifying or illuminating properties. Long term care is essential as well for getting a perfect complexion. It can be provided by a regular application of skin care products, but also by the make-up itself. It implies the use of actives which work on minimizing imperfections, reducing pores or smoothing irregularities.

Soft focus effects

The Sepimat range, a line of texturizing powders has proven soft focus effects. Measured by the industry standard HazeGard Plus Byk Gardner, results show blur effect and antishine effect at a dose of only 2%. The powders are made from sphereshaped particles, solid or hollow, which create a soft-focus effect through two-fold mattifying action of oil absorption and light reflection. With multi directional light scattering, wrinkles are reduced in appearance and the oil absorption helps to provide a flawless finish all day long. The mattifying action is the most desired property in skin care and makeup, but the powdery finish of the range also brings a smooth sensation to body and sun care applications. The complete range includes four solid spheres (Sepimat P, Sepimat CP5, Sepimat SB and Sepipress M products) that have high light-reflection, and three hollow spheres (Sepimat HB V, Sepimat H10 and Sepimat H10 FW products) that have a higher absorption capacity.

Complexion perfectors

The neutral alkanes Emosmart and Emogreen (inert and non-polar) are compatible with extreme formulation conditions. They are not sensible to oxidation, pH change or oxidizing/ reducing media. Emogreen is based on a vegetable and sustainable biomass (the non GMO initial raw material is Mass Balance certified according to RSPO, BVC-RSPO-1- 1972708497). It is Cosmos and Natrue certified. Both ranges reveal mattifying properties (reflectometer measurement). Components (Emosmart L19 and Emogreen L15) show a quick matte effect, after only one minute. Emogreen L19 shows a similar profile to volatile silicone oils, as it gives a progressive matte finish to the skin. Emosmart C28 creates a non-matte, slightly shiny effect that matches the Korean trends called “dewy” or “morning dew” complexion — glossy and luminous but non greasy.

Mattifying effect

The factors on shiny skin? Heat, sweat, sebum, pollution. The result is a skin which seems not always clean. Difficult during summer, but during winter as well. One solution is the use of a mattifying cream. Matifying properties can be provided by powders but also other functional ingredients. Seppic offers a biodegradable texturizing powder, Sepifine BB, sourced from Brazilian babassu. New starch based ingredient, this natural powder constitutes a high-performing alternative to traditional texturing agents while ensuring responsible outsourcing. Sepifine BB displays high capacity in oil absorbtion and offers a pleasant mattifying effect. Montanov 202 is a 100% plant based, non ionic emulsifier, it can also take part in the cream matifying properties. It is Cosmos, Natrue and Ecocert approved. This liquid crystal promoter allows the formulation of a wide range of products, from ultra white, thick lotions to fluid creams. It provides a light and soft skin feel. This emulsifier is also known to have moisturizing properties.

Immediate radiance

Skin radiance is a complex concept since it depends on many factors: the texture of the skin surface, shininess, microcirculation, colour, and other psychological factors. A smooth skin surface reflects more light. Taldavance is an extract of Centella asiatica with a molecular content close to the natural composition of the plant. Besides its common use in traditional Chinese and ayurvedic medicines, this tropical plant has attracted attention for various dermo-cosmetic purposes due to its high level in triterpenes and polyphenols. Tested in vivo with comparison to a placebo, at 5% it significantly improves fresh appearance (+35%), complexion uniformity (+9%) and skin radiance (+58%) after 30 min of application.

3-in-1 complexion corrector

Ceramosides HP is an active ingredient acting as a complexion corrector to wake up tired and mature skin. This patented complex of plant-based ceramides, identical to those found on the skin, containing a high concentration of omega fatty acids (3, 6 and 9), will pep up the skin. It offers a 3-in-1 action to prepare and maintain a flawless complexion. Tested in vivo through the eyes of experienced judges, the active visibly improves the complexion quality: the complexion is fresher, dewier and more homogenous. It also smoothes skin texture by tightening pores due to skin sagging. Lastly, thanks to moisturizing and antioxidation properties, the ingredient maintains healthy skin, protected from irregularities.

Elodie Brun,
cosmetic market manager, Seppic,
La Garenne-Colombes, France,

www.seppic.com 

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