PET-free glittering effects: COSSMA

Scientific evidence and publications in leading magazines are piling up. Plastic is everywhere: plastic particles, nanoplastics and microplastics are in the food we eat, in the beverages we drink (tap water and bottles) and in the air that we breathe. Miniscule worn particles from car tires in the air and microfibres from synthetic clothing are just the tip of the iceberg. Cosmetic products such as lipstick, mascara, nail polish and anti-wrinkle cream also contain plastic.

Coarse pearlescent pigment incorporated into nail polish. photo: Geotech

While concern about plastic particles has grown, the demand for glitter in cosmetic products has also grown, tremendously, in the course of the last decade. Most of the flakes that are used to create all these shiny sparkles with are based, on polyester. Due to recycling concerns, the market has been looking for more sustainable options as an alternative to polyester-based glitter for quite some time. The question now is “Will the industry be capable of offering a variety of glittering effects for colour cosmetics and personal care products which are not based on PET and which are not to be considered as microplastics?”

Upcoming regulation

Consumers are finding it more and more important to know about the nature of ingredients used in cosmetic products. Water quality, animal and human health concerns are the driving forces behind initiatives to stop using microbeads and eventually also microplastics. □□The European Chemicals Agency ECHA has already assessed the health and environmental risks posed by intentionally added microplastics and has concluded that an EU-wide restriction would be justified. If this assessment is adopted, the restriction could result in a reduction in emissions of microplastics of about 400 thousand tonnes over 20 years. ECHA’s proposed restriction targets intentionally added microplastics in products from which they will inevitably be released to the environment. The definition of microplastic is wide and covers small, typically microscopic (less than 5mm), synthetic polymer particles that resist (bio)degradation*.

Most of the flakes used to create shiny sparkles are based on polyester. Photo: Geotech

Alternatives for traditional glitter

As a result of these developments, the industry is looking for alternatives to traditional polyester based glitter flakes (Polyethylene terephthalate). A typical new product now offered by various suppliers is ‘biodegradable glitter’. As this type of glitter is based on cellulose film, it is plastic free. The main weaknesses of this type of biodegradable glitter are that it is instable and has a limited shelf life. The flakes start to degrade as soon as they come into contact with water. This means, when they are incorporated into water-based formulations they shorten the shelf-life of these formulations dramatically.

In addition to biodegradable glitter, coarse pearlescent pigments are also an interesting alternative to plastic glitter flakes. Pearlescent pigments have been used in cosmetic formulations for ages. They are mainly known for their shiny lustre effects created with mica flakes below 100 micron, but the same pigments provide beautiful, sparkling glitter effects in coarse particle sizes. Based on synthetic mica and borosilicate glass, these products are a great alternative for PET glitter. Compared to biodegradable glitter, these mica flakes are more stable, have a longer shelf life and are globally approved.

Our company’s pearlescent pigment portfolio provides many products with coarse particle sizes which can potentially replace traditional PET glitter. The products are divided into a borosilicate (Calcium sodium borosilicate) based range called Geodiamond and a synthetic mica (Synthetic fluorphlogophite) based range called Geopearl C Crystal. Both ranges are cosmetic-approved with few restrictions and are even more stable than traditional PET flakes. In particular, the products with a narrow particle size distribution represent the next generation of products to create sustainable glittering effects in consumer products.

It is important to note that when PET glitter is replaced with coarse pearlescent pigments in a formulation, they are an alternative but they are a different raw material with different behaviour.

1. Glitter are 15–30 micron thick precision cut particles, all more or less of the same size and pearlescent pigments are 2 micron thick flakes with a particle size distribution which provides them with a different kind of effect.

2. Glitter are reflective substrates thanks to the aluminium layer on the plastic particles. Pearlescent pigments are transparent substrates based on mica or borosilicate flakes.

3. Glitter flakes have open edges, contain aluminium and are more sensitive for bleeding in formulations. Pearlescent pigments are coated flakes which are very stable, inert pigments.

Borosilicate pigments on the left versus traditional PET based glitter on the right. photo: Geotech

4. Pearlescent pigments based on synthetic mica are recommended for the use in cosmetics for the eye area rather than borosilicate flakes although there is no restriction from a regulatory point of view (Geopearl C Crystal).

5. Both the Geodiamond and Geopearl C Crystal range can be used in cosmetics for the lips in the United States because they do not contain aluminium. This is why traditional PET glitter, which does contain aluminium, is not allowed.

6. The range of colours within the Geodiamond and Geopearl C Crystal ranges is more limited than PET glitter’s range. However, mixing different types of pearlescent pigments can create an unlimited number of new colours while mixing glitter only provides a multi-colour effect.

Our company’s chemists created various formulations with mixtures of pearlescent pigments to show the countless colour possibilities.

What are the prospects of PET-free glitter pigments?

I am convinced that coarse pearlescent pigments will eventually take over the majority of the current PET glitter market if an amendment of the current regulation comes into effect in future.

The market for biodegradable glitter, on the other hand, is expected to be limited due to their instability and the unresolved question about their complete degradability.

*The final deadline for comments on the restriction report above was September 20th 2019.

Sources: ECHA, Plastic Soup Foundation

About Geotech
Geotech’s special effect pigments are used in the cosmetic industry to differentiate consumer products. The company focuses on the development, production and distribution of pearlescent pigments, aluminium pigments and glitter flakes and provides quality control, formulating support and technical training.The company’s special effect pigments have been used by cosmetic producers from all over the world for over 30 years now.

AUTHOR:

Lieke Boer,
Technical Sales Manager,
Geotech International,
Haarlem, The Netherlands

www.geotech.nl

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