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Photo: Anneleven_Images/Shutterstock.com
Photo: Anneleven_Images/Shutterstock.com

Microplastic has already been banned in many places due to its environmentally harmful effects. Anaïs Hecker presents an ecological alternative with beads made of cellulose material that can enclose and release active ingredients.

When it comes to cosmetics and personal care, beauty is clearly big business. In fact, the global cosmetics market, which was valued at $380.2 billion in 2019, is projected to reach $463.5 billion by 2027, registering a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.3% from 2021 to 20271.

Ever-increasing environmental awareness, along with greater knowledge of health and wellbeing, plays a part in consumer purchasing decisions too – with many demanding greater transparencies not only in the products they choose, but also the ingredients they contain. This is particularly true of the cosmetics sector, which is witnessing a rapid growth in demand for products with natural  ingredients. According to a recent report by global consulting and research firm Kline & Company, “natural” is currently the most important trend in the personal care industry. Furthermore, Adroit Market Research predicts that the organic and natural personal care market will see a CAGR of 8% between 2018 and 2025, as a result of rising consumer preference for natural ingredient-based products2.

Avoiding microplastics

Such findings may have been driven in part by the global backlash over plastic-containing microbeads previously used in cosmetics and personal care products, and their impact on the environment. In fact, concerns over their major contribution to marine pollution means such beads are now banned in many countries. However, the concept still remains hugely popular. And that’s why an all-natural alternative had to be developed3.

The innovative delivery format for cosmetic actives comprises cellulosic beads which, when loaded with selected agents, preserve the ingredients before releasing them during the desired application. Aesthetically pleasing, they can be incorporated into all kinds of cosmetic products, from personal care and hygiene to decorative applications.They provide customers with the results they need while being far gentler on the environment, as they are created only from natural ingredients – not only are they microplasticfree, but also free from preservatives and solvents.

The beads can dispense coloured, freshening, or warming substances, increasing the visual perception and the sensory feeling without leaving residues. They can be an eyecatching solution with various benefits in multiple applications, making them not only a visual concept but also a functional ingredient.

Smart release

When filled, the beads made from natural ingredients such as microcrystalline cellulose, lactose or mannitol swell to form a cell-like structure. This prevents the loaded content from mixing and interfering with the rest of the formula. Only when they are added to a formulation containing water, will they get soft and spreadable.

Once spread on, the active is instantly released both smoothly and efficiently, for maximum benefit and sensory appeal. Furthermore, when rubbed away, they do not leave any residues.

These beads simplify the incorporation of ingredients and can be loaded with liquid or powdered ingredients. They also ensure that colours and actives are kept separate from the excipient.

The beads are well suited for hair, face, body, and oral care applications, as well as hygiene products. These include moisturising oils, sensory agents for cooling or warming sensations, vitamins, and fragrances.

Innovative combinations

The latest innovation are cellulose beads containing activated carbon for gentle and natural cleansing. They are for use in shower gels, shampoos, cleansing masks and toothpastes. The beads contain activated carbon which cleanses skin,

hair, and teeth without any irritating side-effects. And when used in toothpaste, the brushing action triggers the release of the charcoal. Three particular examples should be presented here:

The first beads4 are made of lactose, microcrystalline cellulose and carbon black, and are available in sizes between 0.5mm and 1mm. In addition, a lactose-free (vegan) option is also available and suitable for use in oral care products.

The second5 are brown in colour, with an active content of 30% caffeine. They are designed to give an energy boost while brushing teeth, and provide proven antimicrobial properties.

For face and body care, the third example6 contains aloe vera as an active. When rubbed on to skin, this acts as a soothing, regenerating moisturiser.

Generally, the beads are available in a variety of colour shades in four different sizes and can be customised by composition and loading. 

References:

1 https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market

2 https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2019/04/23/1807675/0/en/Organic-and-Natural-Personal-Care-Market-will-grow-at-a-CAGR-of-8-during-forecast-period-2018-2025-Global-Analysis-by-Trends-Size-Share-Business-Opportunities-and-Key-Developments-.html

3 Cosmospheres

4 Cosmospheres Activated Carbon Beads

5 Cosmospheres BRC-M, meanwhile,

6 green Cosmospheres GYAM-Mi

Anaïs Hecker,

Technical Services Manager

Personal & Oral Care, Omya

International, Oftringen,

Switzerland, www.omya.yom 

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