How to develop nail polish

COSSMA: In what way is the creation of nail varnish products different from that of other colour cosmetics products?

Dr Anke Ginzburg, Director Scientific Communications global Consumer Beauty R&D, Coty: Nail varnish products set themselves apart from all other colour cosmetic products in the sense that the chemistry behind the formulation is more comparable to paint formulations. 

As we use a variety of flammable ingredients including a substantial amount of organic solvents when creating a nail varnish, appropriate and strict safety measures are required not only in the manufacturing process but also in the development laboratories. These are not necessary to the same extent for the development of products from other categories, with the exception of aerosols. 

What were major stages in the history of nail cosmetics?

Nail adornment has been around as a part of beauty routines around the globe for a very long time. The earliest indication of people visually enhancing their nails dates back to 5000 BC when women in India used henna-based dyes to colour their nails and fingertips – a practice that is still used in various cultures today. In more recent times, meaning the 19th and 20th century, tinted oils or coloured powders were used to buff and rub colour into the nail plate to create a tinted, shiny appearance. According to the New York Post, Mary Cobb opened the first nail salon in the USA in 1878. The first modern nail varnish, one which resembles today’s formulations, dates back to 1917 and used a resin technology that was inspired by contemporary car paint.  It included nitrocellulose, which we still use today. 

By the 1950s nail varnish had become very popular in everyday life, especially with women who like to take care of themselves and are inspired by contemporary beauty. However, women were not only interested in fashionable colours but also in products that prevent nails from chipping and cracking. This was part of what drove Sally Hansen to pioneer a new type of nail care with her hardening product □Hard As Nails. In 1957 she started to establish a whole beauty empire under her own name, focusing on nail colour and care. As part of our Coty portfolio, the award-winning brand now has over 300 shades, is distributed in over 55 countries worldwide, and is the number one nail brand in the U.S.

What needs to be kept in mind when formulating nail varnish?

When formulating nail varnish a large variety of factors needs to be taken into account. First and foremost, of course the safety, dermatological innocuousness and compliance of the formulation and its ingredients. To name only a few, some of the attributes a good nail varnish should deliver are of course the colour but also protective properties, easy application, the fast drying of the formula and hardening of the film to a well-adhering, waterproof coating that is flexible enough to move with the nail and not chip, but hard enough to deliver shine and brilliance. These desired properties that consumers look for in a product can lead to tensions in the formulation process as they can be at odds with each other. For example, a hard film coating, which can be achieved by the addition of solids or film former technology to the formula, provides more gloss than a softer, more flexible film.

However, this usually compromises on the flexibility of the coating and can result in a manicure which is prone to chipping and delivers less durability and a shorter wear time of the colour coat. Better flexibility and adhesion of the varnish can be achieved by adding plasticiser, but this in return can lead to increased drying times and a less glossy finish. Finding the right formulation for the desired performance of each product is quite a challenge.