Healthy aging: COSSMA

In modern cosmetics, the focus is no longer on stopping skin aging, but on skin health. Dr Meike Streker explains what measures can be taken to maintain skin quality for as long as possible.

The World Health Organisation (WHO) defines healthy aging as the process of developing and maintaining a person’s functional capacity that enables well-being in old age.¹ When it comes to our skin, we have also realised that we cannot prevent the natural aging process. Whereas classic anti-aging focussed on treating wrinkles and fine lines, today it is all about maintaining skin quality and feeling good in your skin – regardless of your actual age.² In addition, many people have realised during the pandemic that our skin is a barometer of our inner health and general well-being. In contrast to anti-aging treatments, modern strategies such as well aging start at a young age, as even young skin needs protection from external noxae. Among other things, environmental influences induce oxidative stress, reduce the skin’s own barrier capacities and lead to inflammatory processes in the skin³

"It is all about maintaining skin quality and feeling good in your skin"

Furthermore, thanks to scientific findings over the past 15 years, we know that we need to protect our largest organ, the skin, not only from UV rays, but also from visible light, infrared light, smoke, smog and environmental pollution. This is why there is a growing desire for special sunscreens and antioxidant treatments and products. At the same time, the focus is on maintaining and repairing the skin’s own barrier. Classic barrier-stabilising active ingredients are ceramides or squalene, but rehydrating active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or collagen also make a significant contribution to strengthening the skin barrier. Collagen has been shown to intensively store water in the stratum corneum so that moisture loss can be compensated for and the skin’s natural moisturising factor is strengthened.^4,5 This, in turn, leads to an optimisation of the skin barrier. As a positive side effect, studies show that topically applied collagen can immediately reduce superficial wrinkles.⁶

Collagen and panthenol

Collagen and panthenol are a real dream team. Due to its chemical properties, the water-soluble provitamin panthenol (vitamin B5) has the ability to easily penetrate the stratum corneum and moisturise the skin there. It has a barrier-stabilising effect and stimulates the skin’s own barrier lipids. It also contributes to the formation of new cells and thus promotes the regeneration of the skin. In addition to its moisturising and soothing properties, studies have shown that the provitamin improves skin elasticity.⁷

Strengthening the skin barrier

From a cosmetic science perspective, strengthening the skin’s own barrier is the most effective anti-pollution measure alongside adequate cleansing. The cleansing process removes fine dust particles adhering to the skin, preventing them from penetrating the skin. Cleansing in the evening is particularly important here, as the regenerative process that the skin undergoes during the night means that any residues of fine dust and therefore other harmful materials such as PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) can be absorbed by the skin. Strengthening the barrier function also prevents any penetration of harmful substances. Studies show that, in addition to collagen and panthenol, phytosphingosines can also make our skin strong against external influences by effectively strengthening the barrier. Phytosphingosines are long-chain amino alcohols that fulfil important functions as a skin-own component of ceramides. In the skin, they ensure an intact barrier and the stability of the skin’s own moisture. A study published in 2017 indicates that typically applied phytosphingosines increase the moisture content of the human skin barrier by stimulating filaggrin biosynthesis and filaggrin degradation, which in turn increases the synthesis of natural moisturising factor.⁸

Oxidative stress promotes premature skin aging

In addition to environmental toxins such as particulate matter, stress promotes premature skin aging. The influence of psychological stress on our skin is also well documented and more relevant today than ever before. Stress manifests itself in the form of dry skin, skin irritation or acne breakouts. The stress hormone cortisol in particular plays a key role here, as it plays a major role in increasing inflammatory processes in the body, which also affect skin quality.9 All extrinsic factors have one thing in common: they induce oxidative stress, which causes premature skin aging. Oxidative stress always occurs when too many radicals are present, so that the body’s own antioxidants can no longer neutralise the radicals.

Resveratrol is one of the gold standard antioxidant cosmetic ingredients.

Effects on the skin

This results in damage to the epidermal and dermal structures, such as the breakdown of collagen or a reduction in the formation of new dermal matrix components. Well-aging therefore focuses on protection against free radicals as well as adequate sun protection. At best, the latter consists of UV-A and UV-B protection as well as antioxidants that can protect against the effects of infrared-A radiation.¹⁰

Strong classic: vitamin C

The best-known antioxidant is vitamin C. It is mainly found in fruit, has been proven to protect cells from free radicals and also has preservative properties for skin care products. Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, has an anti-inflammatory effect and can reduce hyperpigmentation.¹¹ It is also a key co-factor in collagen production. As early as 2003, scientists were able to prove in a randomised, placebo-controlled study that 5% vitamin C leads to a significant improvement in microrelief and wrinkles after six months of application to the skin and thus contributes to a visible improvement in light-damaged skin.¹² As vitamin C is very unstable, it is a real challenge in cosmetic science to find stable formulations that lead to an optimal result on the skin. Innovative technologies make it possible to keep vitamin C stable in its most active form until it is applied to the skin. This allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin. A significant improvement in the signs of skin aging can be seen after just eight weeks of application. A study on a skin model was also able to evaluate an increase in collagen synthesis.

Probably the best known and most used antioxidant is vitamin C.

Gold standard: resveratrol

Alongside vitamin C, resveratrol is now considered the gold standard of antioxidant active ingredients in cosmetics. Chemically speaking, resveratrol belongs to the polyphenols, which are said to have a high antioxidant effect. It acts directly in the mitochondria of skin cells, where it neutralises reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are induced by infrared A light, among other things.¹³ It is also thought to be able to stimulate the body’s own antioxidant enzyme systems. Clinical studies have shown that resveratrol inhibits a UVB-induced increase in lipid peroxides, thus protecting our skin’s own lipids and counteracting UV-B-induced photoaging.¹⁴ Further studies show that resveratrol inhibits the expression of so-called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are responsible for the breakdown of collagen, among other things.¹⁵ One innovation in this area, for example, is a special method that allows the active trans-resveratrol to be stabilised and released into the skin in an effective concentration. This is the only way it is able to bind free radicals. Studies show that the skin’s antioxidant defence system is strengthened by up to 35% from the very first application.¹⁶ In addition, the skin is 46% firmer and smoother after eight weeks and the depth of wrinkles has decreased by 10%.¹⁷

Ectoin as a protective shield

But, it is not only antioxidants that have a protective effect on the skin. The amino acid derivative ectoine, which is formed by certain bacteria, also serves as a real protective shield for the skin. Clinical studies have shown that ectoine intensively moisturises and thus demonstrably strengthens the skin barrier. Its stabilising effect on the skin’s cell membranes and its protective effect on proteins against extrinsic stress factors such as cold and heat, radiation and radicals should be emphasised.¹⁸ It also has skin-soothing properties, which are reflected in a reduction in skin redness.

Conclusion

To summarise, it can be said that prevention has become more important than classic anti-aging in the last few years. Today more than ever, modern cosmetic treatments are focussing on active ingredients that protect, strengthen and keep our skin healthy.

References:

1 https://www.who.int/ageing/healthy-ageing/en/ Stand: 28.06.2020

2 Berhard Fink, Karl Grammer, Paul Matts. Visual skin color distribution plays a role in the perception of age, attractiveness, and health of female faces. Evolution and Human Behavior 2005 Nov;27:433–442.

3 Krutmann J, Bouloc A, Sore G, Bernard BA, Passeron T. The skin aging exposome. J Dermatol Sci. 2017 Mar;85(3):152–161.

4 Berardesca E, Abril E, Serio M, Cameli N. Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Aug;31(4):271–7.

5 Lupo MP, Cole AL. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther. 2007 Sep-Oct;20(5):343–9.

6 DI, Aguirre-Álvarez G. Hydrolyzed Collagen-Sources and Applications. Molecules. 2019 Nov 7;24(22):4031.

7 Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177–90.

8 Choi HK, Cho YH, Lee EO, Kim JW, Park CS. Phytosphingosine enhances moisture level in human skin barrier through stimulation of the filaggrin biosynthesis and degradation leading to NMF formation. Arch Dermatol Res. 2017 Dec;309(10):795–803.

9 Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177–90.

10 Grether-Beck S, Marini A, Jaenicke T, Krutmann J. Effective photoprotection of human skin against infrared A radiation by topically applied antioxidants: results from a vehicle controlled, double-blind, randomized study. Photochem Photobiol. 2015 Jan-Feb;91(1):248-50. doi: 10.1111/php.12375. Epub 2014 Nov 24. PMID: 25349107.

11 Farris PK. Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):814-7; discussion 818.

12 Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C, Nusgens B, Richard A, Schmitt D, Rougier A, Zahouani H. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: doubleblind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237–44.

13 Farris P, Krutmann J, Li YH, McDaniel D, Krol Y. Resveratrol: a unique antioxidant offering a multi-mechanistic approach for treating aging skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013 Dec;12(12):1389-94. PMID: 24301240.

14 Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J. Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2019;21(2):84–90.

15 Cui B, Wang Y, Jin J, Yang Z, Guo R, Li X, Yang L, Li Z. Resveratrol Treats UVB-Induced Photoaging by Anti-MMP Expression, through Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, and Antiapoptotic Properties, and Treats Photoaging by Upregulating VEGF-B Expression. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2022 Jan 4;2022:6037303.

16 Gematria Test Lab GmbH, Germany. Determination of the Skin’s antioxidative Power (SAP) via Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) Spectroscopy. 2013.

17 University of Hamburg. n = 18 (female aged 35 to 50). Once daily use for 8 weeks. Skin smoothing (Expert Rating). Skin density (Ultrasound), Skin firmness (Cutometer). Customer satisfaction (Questionnaire). 2017.

18 Graf R, Anzali S, Buenger J, Pfluecker F, Driller H. The multifunctional role of ectoine as a natural cell protectant. Clin Dermatol. 2008 Jul-Aug;26(4):326–33