Hairy business: COSSMA

Companies that produce hair and scalp care products need ingredients that enable them to meet the unique needs and concerns of every individual consumer. That is why a steadily growing range of innovative active ingredients is necessary. Nathalie Wojtowicz and Dr Torsten Clarius know the trends.

The modern world presents a unique range of challenges for the hair and scalp. Today’s stressful lifestyles cause the sebaceous glands in the follicles to overproduce sebum, which can lead to greasy or oily hair. On top of this, the rising trend for living in cities exposes the hair and scalp to a range of factors that affect its health and appearance. Pollution, for example, gradually asphyxiates the scalp, causing discomfort, itching and dandruff. As a result of modern lifestyles, 42% of global consumers have concerns about their scalp, while 54% say their hair is damaged or dry¹.

Consumers want solutions to these challenges and concerns to meet their unique requirements and prefe-rences. Some people want high-tech hair and scalp care products that have demonstrated outstanding efficacy. Others expect products to reflect their ethical values and environmental concerns. Certain consumers simply want great-looking hair, while there are also many people who prefer reliable and affordable solutions.

figure 1: Evolution in percentage of scalp redness (DermoGenius Ultra and image analysis) with use of a shampoo containing PeptAIde 4.0 at 2% and placebo over time versus baseline (D0). figures: BASF

Sophisticated consumers

Consumers who only trust science and proven efficacy are mostly attracted to products that include ingredients with a technology-driven profile. People in this group are willing to invest significant time and money in the latest scalp care innovations. In the US, 34% of adults are interested in scalp care innovations², while 78% say that claims about moisturisation are important to them when selecting hair care products³.

A relatively new active ingredient⁴ was launched as an innovative and plant-based solution that is clinically proven to protect hair and scalp against damage caused by silent inflammation.

In clinical tests, male and female participants with sensitive or itchy scalps used a shampoo formulation containing 2% active ingredient three times a week for three weeks. Scalp redness decreased visibly by 9% and the pH level of the scalp was 0.4 units lower, which is equivalent to the difference between a sensitive and non-sensitive scalp⁵ (figure 1). The shampoo was mild to the scalp, showing no disturbance of the level of sebum. It contains a blend of four biopeptides that were discovered using Artifitcial Intelligence technology.

Similarly, sophisticated consumers respond positively to actives with cutting-edge 3D micro fleece mesh structure⁶ which features a slow-release system that rehydrates the hair and scalp. The combination of pullulan, alginate, and hyaluronic acid forms a molecular network that acts as a protective film and reduces water evaporation on the skin’s surface. The micromesh contains a complex made up of glyce-rin, L-serine, trehalose, and urea. These natural moisturising factors are gradually released into the upper layer of the epidermis – the stratum corneum – rebalancing its moisture levels.

figure 2: Volunteers’ perception of hair benefits: Percentage of volunteers who agreed with the statement after 14 days of treatment (A) and after 28 days of treatment (B) with Rambuvital. figures: BASF

Caring for the planet

An increasingly large group of consumers is seeking hair and scalp care products with a socially and environmentally responsible profile. This group is willing to invest in clean and sustainable solutions that are aligned with their focus on conscious consumerism. In the US, 33% of beauty and personal care users state that they are willing to pay more for products that use sustainable ingredients⁷, while 79% of adult consumers in China are willing to spend more for an ethical beauty brand⁸.

Natural and plant-based active ingredients are empowering producers of hair and scalp care products to meet these expectations. A biodegradable ingredient obtained by fermenting rapeseed oil and sugar with the natural yeast Starmerella bombicola⁹ offers a dual mechanism of action: it helps to control the proliferation of microorganisms that induce dandruff, inflammation and irritation, and to strengthen the stratum corneum, thereby supporting proper scalp desquamation.

Another ingredient¹⁰ that addresses the needs of this group can boost scalp hydration and repel odours, while revitalising the hair. It also protects both the scalp and hair follicles against pollution-induced stress. In vivo studies, the scalp was significantly more hydrated within one month of product application and the hair appeared and felt visibly healthier and shinier (figure 2). In this case the product is Cosmos-approved as 100% natural and is based on seeds that are sourced as part of a program that promotes a socially and environmentally responsible supply chain.

From super styling to the basics

Of course, many consumers just want great-looking hair that gives them confidence – and generates a positive response on social media. These are often beauty enthusiasts who want to experience new ways of managing and styling their hair.

Here, active ingredients based on extracts from the African Baobab tree have proven themselves. Depending on the active, it can either boost hair sur-face smoothness by 83%, which improves combability and makes curls more resistant to mechanical stress¹¹ or combined with flavonoids from bitter orange fruit, protects dyed hair against fading when exposed to sunlight¹². Another active ingredient that is a botanical butter extracted from the edible fruit of the Irvingia gabonensis tree, also known as wild mango¹³ is used to increase combability, volume and brightness.

For some people, the focus is simply on functional beauty products that offer good hygiene at an affordable price. These mass consumers want hair and scalp care products that are based on ingredients they know and trust. Natural all-in-one hair and calp products that combine improved suppleness and brightness of the hair with reduced sebum and dandruff¹⁴ are just as suitable as active ingredients that have a nourishing effect on the hair and at the same time soothe the scalp quickly¹⁵.

References

1 Euromonitor International Beauty Survey, fielded in June and July 2020.

2 Mintel Shampoo, Conditioner and Hairstyling Products: Incl Impact of COVID-19 – US, April 2020.

3 Mintel Shampoo, Conditioner and Hairstyling Products: Incl Impact of COVID-19 – US, April 2020.

4 PeptAIde 4.0 (INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Citric Acid)

5 Takagi Y, Takatoku H, Terazaki H, Nakamura T, Ishi da K, Kitahara T.The Scalp Has a Lower Stratum Corneum Function with a Lower Sensory Input than Other Areas of the Skin Evaluated by the Electrical Current Perception Threshold. Cosmetics. 2:384-393, 2015

6 For example: PatcH2O (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (and) Trehalose (and) Urea (and) Serine (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Algin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Pullulan (and) Disodium Phosphate (and) Potassium Phosphate)

7 Mintel Ingredient trends in beauty and personal care: including impact of COVID-19 – US, October 2020.

8 Mintel COVID-19 will compel beauty brands to be “clean” – April 2020

9 BioToLife, INCI: Water (and) Yeast Ferment Extract

10 Rambuvital, INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Nephelium Lappaceum (Seed) Extract

11 Dansonyl, INCI: Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract) and Vegeles Phyto Filtre (INCI: Water (and)  Propylene Glycol (and) Bioflavonoids (and) Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract (and) Dextrin

12 Vegeles Phyto Filtre, INCI: Water (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Bioflavonoids (and) Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract (and) Dextrin

13 Irwinol, INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

14 Sanicapyl, INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (and) Sodium Caproyl Lactylate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Piper Nigrum Fruit Extract (and) Inga Alba Bark Extract

15 Phytosoothe, INCI: Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols (and) Cetearyl Alcohol