Green chemistry gaining ground

COSSMA: What were the most striking trends of the ingredients launches at this year’s In-Cosmetics Global in Paris, one of the year’s most important launchpads?

Dr Andrea Mitarotonda Consultant: I think that the most striking trend in the market of cosmetic ingredients is the fact that green, sustainable, renewable and circular-economy-based ingredients are no longer just a trend.

It is now becoming the norm to launch ingredients that fulfil all these requirements. Green Chemistry is, at last, turning into the new type of chemistry for the personal care and cosmetics industry.

What are the most innovative approaches currently in the field of bio-based ingredients?

I think two really interesting and innovative approaches can be identified in the market of bio-based raw materials. 

These include the use of waste materials and the use of non-edible crops to be used for the production of cosmetic ingredients.

In both cases we are looking at a phenomenon that goes well beyond the mere concepts of natural and sustainable.

We are faced with ethical questions such as “why use crops that could be better utilised for food/feed purposes as building blocks for cosmetic ingredients?” or “can we re-use waste from food production for the creation of cosmetic ingredients with skin care benefits?”.

In this context, the idea and the principles of an economy that is more circular than linear play a role.

For example, Roelmi HPC is a manufacturer of specialties that produces interesting emollients using non-edible crops such as from milk thistle, and from by-products and waste of olive oil production.