Forever young?

Low fertility and an increased life expectancy of 78 years for men and 83 years for woman have introduced a pronounced ageing process. According to the BpB (Bundes­zentrale für politische Bildung), in 1900 45 percent of the population in Germany was under 20 years old, and only 4 percent were 65 years old and older. In 2060 the proportion of the population under 20 years old will have dwindled to one third of its current level, and the proportion of people over 65 years old will increase to more than six times of the current level¹. The demographic transition is dynamic and results in an increased demand on the health sector. 

Skin quality decreases

The elderly are affected by many dermatological concerns, not all of which are caused by the normal ageing process. Some of these concerns are related to individual lifestyles, cosmetic routines and additional lifelong exposure to environmental agents. The skin is in direct contact with the environment and undergoes ageing as a consequence of environmental damage. In comparison to chronological /intrinsic aged skin, which results in subepidermal atrophy, fine lines and sagging, extrinsic aged skin shows deeper wrinkles and a heterogenic pigmentation. As extrinsic skin ageing is caused by a variety of factors, cosmetic and environmental scientists use the term skin ageing exposome to describe the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death². According to the skin ageing exposome, skin ageing is affected by sun radiation, smoking, nutrition, physical stress, lack of sleep and pollution. As a consequence of these influencing factors the skin quality is decreased. 

Significant modifications 

A study from 2015 demonstrated an important impact of polluted environmental conditions on skin quality. There were significant □modifications of parameters related to sebum excretion, a lower level of vitamin E and squalene in sebum. The degradation of sebum quality and quantity results in decreased skin barrier function³. Other studies showed that air pollution exposure was significantly correlated to signs of skin ageing such as pigment spots and wrinkles4. Moreover studies investigated the influence of sleep on skin quality and skin ageing. In 2010 a Swedish study showed that people are less attractive when sleep deprived compared to when they are well rested⁵. Another study from 2015 indicated that chronic poor sleep quality is associated with increased signs of ageing and diminished skin barrier function⁶. UV-radiations, as well infrared-A radiation, tobacco smoke and physical stress induce oxidative stress, a disturbance in the balance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant defences. This, in turn, plays a major role in the ageing process. ROS can signal pathways contributory to skin ageing, for example the activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) like collagenases, which increases collagen degradation⁷.

In summary the aged face is characterized by decreased quality and quantity of sebum content, stratum corneum hydration, and hyperpigmentation like liver spots, loss of elasticity and firmness and as well wrinkles. To slow the ageing process four cosmetic procedures are required:

• Balance antioxidants.
• Stabilize skin barrier function.
• Maintain and renew physiological parameters.
• Protect against sunlight and pollution.

It’s all about antioxidants

Free radicals play a major role in sun damage as well as in pollution by degrading the skin structural fibres (collagen, elastin), cell membranes, DNA, or creating inflammatory reactions⁸. Antioxidants are molecules that prevent free radicals from taking electrons and causing damage in a physiological and dynamic balance. Environmental stress breaks this balance. While some antioxidants can be synthesized by humans (linke ubiquinol), others can only be supplied through diet. So it is important to note that the use of oral or topical antioxidants does not replace a diet with vegetables and fruits consumption. Antioxidants such as Vitamin C from botanical sources have shown positive effects on skin quality. 

Use antioxidants like Vitamin C

Vitamin C protects against free radical damage and helps maintain the elasticity and the integrity of the extracellular matrix. Moreover, it is an anti-inflammatory agent that degrades and eliminates histamine and stimulates the immune system⁹. A study from 2017 showed that Licochalcone A suppresses the oxidation of cells¹⁰. Furthermore, it reduces redness and soothes the skin. Resveratrol, a polyphenolic phytoalexin present in large amounts in red grapes, is also used as an antioxidant in cosmetic products. Additionally, it has antiproliferative, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties¹¹. Niacinamide, an old favourite in the cosmetic industry, is also an excellent antioxidant. It helps to repair UV-induced skin cell damage and rebalances skin tone as it prevents pigment on surface the skin¹².

Protecting against environmental influences

Protecting the skin against environmental influences is the key to slowing the signs of ageing and must be at the base of a daily cosmetic treatment. This means more than only protecting the skin from UV-radiation. The majority of sunscreen products protect against UV-B and UV-A radiation, but infrared-A radiation is not blocked by SPF. Just like pollution, Infrared-A creates reactive oxygen species which can be scavenged and neutralised by antioxidants. 

Protecting the skin against premature ageing requires a healthy diet, a healthy lifestyle, effective and adequate cosmetics with active agents and an effective protection against environmental stress. We cannot keep our skin forever young but we can slow the ageing process with chosen cosmetic products

References

1. Demographic Chance in Germany and Europe, Bundes­zentale für politische Bildung 2014
2. Krutman J et al. The skin aging exposom. J Dermatol Sci. 2017
3. Lefebvre MA et al. Evaluation of the impact of urban pollution on the quality of skin: a multicentre study in ­Mexico. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015
4. Vierkötter A. Airbone particle exposure and extrinsic skin aging. J Invest Dermatol. 2010
5. Axelsson J et al. Beauty sleep: experimental study on the perceived health and attractiveness of sleep deprived people. BMj 2019
6. Oyetakin-White P et al. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2015
7. Rinnethaler M et al. Oxidative Stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules.2015
8. Rice-Evans CA et al. N Compr Biochem.1994
9. Juliet M et al.The role of vitamin c in skin health. Nutrients 2017
10. Chen X et al. Antioxidative and anticancer properties of Licochalcone A from licorice. J Ethnopharmacol. 2017
11. Ratz-Lyko et al. Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatology application: A review. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2019
12. Rovito HA. Niacotinamide preferentially protects glycolysis in dermal fibroblast under oxidative skin conditions. Br J Dermatol. 2013
13. Graf R et al. The multifunctional role of ectoine as a natural cell protectant. Clin Dermtol 2008
14. Huang ZR et al. Biological and pharmalogical activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules 2009
15. Babilas P et al. Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxyl acids. JDeutsch Dermatol 2012
16. Algiert-Zielinska B eta al. Comperative evaluation of skin moisture after topical application of 10% and 30% lactobionic acid.
17. Tsai CC et al. application of Lactobacillus rhamnosus spent culture supernatant antioxidation, whitening and moisture retention application. Molecules 2013.