For sustainable cosmetic innovation: COSSMA

So-called green chemistry is a relatively young discipline that can do a lot for environmental protection, especially when it comes to sustainability. Barbara Olioso shows what is behind it and how cosmetic products can benefit from it both in terms of content and image.

Back in the nineties, chemists John Warner and Paul Anastas came up with the concept of green chemistry¹. Green chemistry is a guideline based on principles to practice chemistry with a much more holistic approach born out of the need to minimise waste and at the same time to look after workers’ safety and the environment. Its key founding criteria is waste and pollution prevention, aiming to be very efficient and making the most of the resources used.

The green chemistry concept comprises of twelve principles, which are circular in nature and can be applied to other systems too. In the case of the cosmetic industry it provides a great framework not only for raw materials development and production but also for cosmetics formulation and manufacturing. Its beauty is that it is aligned with consumers’ green values and yet is based on science, so it is in a way an inclusive tool.

The green chemistry concept will be summarised here, applied to cosmetics following a circular path in five steps

Step 1: renewable and sustainable carbon

Green chemistry favours the use of renewable materials to avoid wasting non-renewable ones. In light of what we know today this was really visionary for the time because today we know that about 80% of GHG emissions come from fossil carbon². The use of renewable carbon is also in line with the European Green Deal objective of reducing carbon emissions by 55% by 20303.

In addition to using renewable carbon it is important to source it in a sustainable way by avoiding deforestation and wild habitat destruction. This trend is gaining momentum in the cosmetic industry with particular attention onto palm and palm kernel oil derivatives.

The new version of Cosmos, which is due out at the end of 2022, will introduce further requirements limiting ingredients of this origin. There are also other interesting trends related to sourcing carbon sustainably from food waste upcycling, wild weeds, microalgae, and seaweed.

Step 2: carbon transformation by molecular design

Molecules still need to be designed with performance and safety in mind, and at the same time with biodegradability and low aquatic toxi-city so that once used they will not be polluting the environment and will fit into the ecosystem.

Such molecules need to be synthesised using chemical processes as simple as possible keeping also low use of energy if possible. The process needs to use green reagents, solvents and catalysts, maximising yield and selectivity, minimising by-products, and toxicity. This also has the benefit of preventing toxic materials for wor-kers and if spillage takes place it should not be a major environmental disaster.

In the past 20 years raw materials suppliers have been supplying innovative ingredients such as multi-functional ingredients, with antimicrobial properties⁴, surfactants, solubilisers and emulsifiers. Recent environmental regulations have resulted in launches for green alternatives to sili-cones, plastic micro-beads, film formers, opacifiers, etc.

Step 3: Eco designed formulations

The number of cosmetic ingredients designed according to green chemistry principles has increased dramatically over the past ten to twenty years and this gives cosmetic formulators a wider pallet to formulate performing products according to eco design criteria. However before starting the formulation process it is always good to be clear about the type of product performance and application.

Green chemistry molecules have good performance but their molecular structure and therefore their sensorial and chemical behaviours will inventively be different to traditionally used raw materials. Ingredients suppliers are aware of this transition from a traditional to a green chemistry approach and they are providing supporting data to show that some of these new materials are not only comparable to their petrochemical counterpart but perform even better. These are really exciting times for formulators who wish to improve their formulas in many different ways.

Step 4: lower impact manufacturing

Water requirement and CO2 emissions take centre stage when it comes to cosmetics manufacturing. These can be reduced via formulating with cold processing or water free / waterless in mind, by having a closed loop for the factory water⁵. Not only brands but also cosmetic contract manufacturers are moving towards reducing waste and water use as well as using electricity from renewable sources⁶.

Hygiene and cleaning are intrinsic to good cosmetics manufacturing therefore using cleaning products with a good environmental profile is also critical for lower impact manufacturing.

Who knows if the coronavirus pandemic and the aim of reducing CO2 emissions will create a trend of buying cosmetics made nearer the consumer?

Step 5: final use

Most cosmetics once used end up in wastewater treatment plants, except for a few products that end up in the sea and oceans. It is at this stage where green chemistry delivers great benefit to the environment with a good end of life.

Conclusions

Green chemistry is a circular model that can be applied to cosmetics development and manufacturing to drive sustainable innovation. It also makes cosmetics more resilient to environmental regulations in line with the net Zero target, and last but not least consumers values.