Biobased Ingredients

Nowadays, consumers are increasingly concerned with creating a more eco-friendly lifestyle. This has encouraged consumers to pay more attention to the ingredients within a product, leading to an increased preference for biomass-sourced ingredients instead of their petrochemical-derived synthetic counterparts. 

As a result, users are changing their purchasing habits opting for sustainable products. A study conducted in 2021 found that 63% of the global population has changed their consumption behaviors, shifting towards a more sustainable life and that 34% of global consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products or services.¹ 

What are biobased ingredients and where do they occur? 

Biobased products are determined by the U.S Department of Agriculture (USDA) as “products composed in whole or in significant part, of biological products, including renewable domestic agricultural materials, renewable chemicals, and forestry materials; or an intermediate ingredient or feedstock”.²

A wide range of product types can be formulated using biobased materials, including personal care and toiletries, packaging, plastics, construction materials, household supplies products, and plant-based inks, to name a few. 

Labelling and certification

In an effort to produce plant-derived products, cosmetic manufacturers are opting for biobased materials as an alternative to petroleum-derived ingredients. Labels and certifications play an important role when it comes to promoting green products, allowing manufacturers to demonstrate the use of biomass-sourced ingredients in their products. In addition, consumers can easily identify plant-based alternatives in the marketplace. In this sense, the USDA BioPreferred Program is responsible for promoting the use and purchase of biobased products through the Voluntary Labeling Program and the Federal Procurement Preference Program.

Voluntary labelling programme

The USDA identifies 139 product categories and establishes a minimum percentage of biobased content for each category. Within this program, over 4,500 personal products have been certified biobased, including cosmetics and facial care products.³

An example of biobased ingredients for cosmetic formulations are biosurfactants, which can be made from naturally occurring materials such as yeast and filamentous fungi replacing fossil fuel substances.⁴ Biosurfactants have a wide range of properties for cosmetics, including cleansing, foaming, detergent effects, and solubilisers.⁵

To apply for the Voluntary Labeling Program, manufacturers are required to measure the biobased content in an approved laboratory following the ASTM D6866 standard. The product should meet or exceed the percentage established to obtain the label. For example, cosmetics, including foundation, eye shadow, and blush require a minimum of 25% biobased content whereas lip care products should contain at least 82% biobased content.⁶

How to test

In order to validate biobased ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, third-party verification is required. In this sense, ASTM D6866 using carbon-14 testing is an accurate analytical method to screen cosmetic products for the presence of petrochemical-derived substances. Through the Analysis, manufacturers can verify their biobased source claims, while consumers can easily identify biobased products.

Recognise results

Test results are reported as a percentage (%) of biobased carbon content ranging from 0% to 100%. The value represents the portion of the product that corresponds to biomass sources. A product entirely composed of plant-based ingredients will yield a result of 100% biobased whereas a product that contains petrochemical compounds only will result in 0% biobased. A value in between demonstrates that the product contains a mixture of biomass and fossil fuels sources. For instance, a result of 70% biobased will indicate that the product is composed of 70% biobased content and 30% petrochemical-derived substances, which reflects that the product is not completely made of biomass-sourced ingredients.⁸

Testing is required by several third-party certification programs, such as the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) BioPreferred program, which requires the use of ASTM D6866 testing to be eligible for the USDA Certified Biobased label.

Conclusion

The demand for biomass-based ingredients in cosmetic products in addition to an increase in mislabeling of cosmetic ingredients acts as a driving force for manufacturers to validate the plant-based ingredients of their products. In this sense, appropriate analyses can detect potential adulteration in ingredients. Additionally, an analysis is required by several certification programs, which allows manufacturers to certify their products or receive biobased eco-labels.

References:

1. Simon-Kucher & Partners. “Global Sustainability Study 2021”, (N=10,281). October 2021.
2. United States Department of Agriculture. “Biobased Products”. N.d.
3. BioPreferred Program Fact Sheet [PDF] (2023, 20. March). https://www.biopreferred.gov/BioPreferred/faces/pages/AboutBioPreferred.xhtml
4. Treichel H et al. “Chapter 16 - Solid-State Fermentation for the Production of Biosurfactants and Their Applications.” Current Developments in Biotechnology and Bioengineering. November 2018: 357-372
5. Moldes A et al. “Chapter 8 - Biosurfactants: the use of biomolecules in cosmetics and detergents.” New and Future Developments in Microbial Biotechnology and Bioengineering. June 2020: 163-185
6. United States Department of Agriculture. “Product Categories”. N.d.
7. ASTM International. “ASTM D6866 - 21, Standard Test Methods for Determining the Biobased Content of Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Radiocarbon Analysis.” January 28, 2021.
8. Beta Analytic. “Understanding Carbon-14 Analysis”. N.d.