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This year’s first ingredients show Cosmetagora was the launch pad for a large number of new anti-ageing and other helpful ingredients, study results and formulation concepts. This January, 175 exhibitors showed their latest ingredients developments to 4,700 predominantly French visitors, 500 more than in 2017. There were 20 more exhibitors than in the previous year. Cosmetagora celebrated its 10th anniversary with a Formulation Contest that limited the entries to 10 ingredients. The winner was Estenity with its formulation for a Make-up Remover Crystal Stick for the lips. Kaneka’s Natural Cleansing Gel won the 2nd prize and AAK’s Surprise Meringue came third. Prodotti Gianni’s Let It Glow Soft Baked Powder qualified for special mention by the jury.  

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Active Concepts: Algae derived active

Active Concepts’s AcquaSeal Algae is an oil-soluble active designed to promote youthful skin by reducing ‘inflammaging’ and increasing cellular proliferation. It helps to enhance cellular renewal, cellular hydration, cellular proliferation, and anti-inflammation. Derived from Chlamydomonas reinhardtii, a proprietary technology is used to extract lipid fractions from these sustainable green algae. As green algae habitats including fresh water, seawater, damp soil, and even snow, they produce an array of unique bioactive complex lipids and fatty acids. 

www.activeconcepts.it

BASF: Anti-stress ingredient

BASF’s anti-stress ingredient Hyalurosmooth, extracted from the Indian Cassia angustifolia, represses cortisol’s damaging impact on skin, restoring the collagen type I and hyaluronic acid that are affected. It helps the skin recover its hydration and radiance. RNAge, based on the latest findings of the company’s epigenetics platform, is extracted from sea buckthorn. It rebalances Let-7b, the microRNA that downregulates the production of proteins which are key to building dermal architecture.

www.care-chemicals.basf.com

Clariant: New bio-based polymer

Clariant and Global Bioenergies have developed a new bio-based polymer for cosmetic creams and lotions, which is derived from renewable sugar-based isobutene. The rheology modifier influences formulation viscosity and achieves specific sensorial and texturising properties for creams and lotions. The bio-based polymer is a breakthrough for the industry as it is proven not to change the properties of an application, offering formulators a direct 1:1 alternative to petroleum-based equivalents. The companies are currently working on upscaling production with larger volumes.

www.clariant.com

JRS: Microcrystalline Cellulose as a smoothing agent

Vivapur CS 4 FM from JRS, J. Rettenmaier & Söhne Group, is a microcrystalline cellulose. As a smoothing agent and wrinkle filling powder, it is the perfect natural additive for all anti-wrinkle products. Vivastar CS Instant Powder and Vivastar CS 302 SV Powder can be used as instant rheology modifiers, swelling powders and absorption powders for all kinds of dry or powder formulations. Vivapur CS Bamboo Charcoal Cellulose Spheres for shower products and toothpaste generate massage and cleansing effects as well as abrasiveness. Vivapur CS Tex Sun creates a unique skin feel and a very homogenous spray mist in products. Due to its high thixotropic behaviour, sunscreen products will be much easier to apply.

www.jrs.de

Mibelle Biochemistry: Monk's Pepper Berries

Mibelle Biochemistry’s Densorphin, based on an extract of monk’s pepper berries, is designed to combat hormonally induced skin ageing. It was found to stimulate the synthesis of DHEA and to possess a beta-endorphin-like activity. DHEA is the precursor for both sex hormones, the female estrogen and the male testosterone. In placebo-controlled clinical trials with women and men over 50, a cream with this ingredient showed a clear improvement of skin elasticity after just 14 days. Analysis of deeper skin layers with ultrasonography showed a significant increase in skin density. 

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

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