Ageing gracefully

While the theory of exactly how and why cells age and die as we grow older may vary, the visible results remain the same: lines form and deepen, skin becomes thinner and starts to sag, and uneven skin tones develop. Luckily, with the right actives formulated into good delivery bases, these visible effects can be largely halted and in many cases, reversed. Consumers want to get the best results from the products they purchase, but to make sure this happens, it is important to promote the right anti-ageing result for the actives selected, specific to their individual age-related concerns.

What happens within the epidermis and dermis as the skin ages and what visible effect does this have on the skin? And most importantly, what sort of actives can best address and correct these concerns, with appropriate claims, in relation to their activity?

Repeated facial movements and muscular contractions will lead to fine lines, and eventually, deeper wrinkles. The expressions and facial movements made throughout our youth starts to catch up with us in our 30s – usually as temporary fine lines at first, and then as progressively deeper and more lasting wrinkles. If the facial movements can be reduced or stopped, the number and depth of fine lines (and wrinkles) that would otherwise start and/or deepen over time can be reduced. The concept of injectable products such as Botox do exactly this: they stop the muscular contractions to prevent formation of lines and lessen the lines that may already be present.

Correcting the first two mechanisms of ageing can be easier in comparison to what gravity does to skin over time. Visible sagging is most noticeable beyond the mid-40s, and most noticeably affects the eyelids and jaw line. As skin ages, the assembly of collagen and elastin starts to be affected, which impacts the skin’s natural firmness and resistance to gravitational effects.

Daily UV and free radical onslaughts not only contribute significantly to visible ageing of the skin by affecting collagen and elastin, not to mention DNA damage, but can also lead to the accumulation of darkened areas of skin and age spots. The best way to combat these changes comes in the form of products with UV agents present; a very easy and everyday way to achieve this is by adding UV filters, antioxidant and anti-pollution actives to make-up products. Daily moisturisers can also be created using suitable anti-pollution active ingredients, naturally high in antioxidant activity and preferably with some UV protective or restorative action.

No single anti-ageing active is going to solve all consumer concerns; so it is relevant to:

• carefully select the actives with the right target of action to match product claims
• hold suitable in vivo evidence to support all claims made
• translate the physiological results obtained to suitable cosmetic claims
• provide the right claims to guide consumers in their product selection
• put key actives in a suitable delivery base to ensure optimum activity. 

These are the key mechanisms that contribute to the visible effects of ageing along with multiple ways to correct these mechanisms. It is important to focus on targeting the right mechanism with the right actives and the right claims to make consumers happier with that mirror on the wall, regardless of their age.

AUTHOR:
Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS)belinda@personalcarescience.com.au
www.personalcarescience.com.au