December 2015

Focus: Innovation

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Focus: Innovation

Innovation 2015: What's hot in 2015?

This selection of major product launches in 2015 shows a clear trend towards powerful, natural, sustainably-produced active ingredients. Some examples: Natural formulation with skin-identical non-GMO sunflower phospholipids mimics both the molecular organization and composition of the stratum corneum intercellular lipids. Bamboo charcoal acts as a deodorizer, purifier and humidity controller. Improved bioavailability of retinol promotes a youthful look.

Front cover picture: Kenzo

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Luxe Pack Review

At the 28th Luxe Pack event in October in Monaco, many new concepts or innovations attracted attention this year: smart or connected packaging, new sensory effects, beauty packaging concepts featuring new application gestures, materials associations, new personalisation techniques, etc..

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Olive Oil

Sustainable cosmetic ingredients from olive fruit oil process

Olifeel ingredients from Brasca help rebalance the original protec-tive film of the skin, thanks to their biomimetic properties with intercellular lipid matrix and se-bum. What is more, these ingredi-ents are obtained from by-products of olive with the help of a new eco-sustainable patented technology.


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Aerosol Can of the Year

World Aluminium Aerosol Can Award Winners announced

The winners of the World Aluminium Aerosol Can Award have been announced. They were chosen by a jury of journalists from internationally renowned specialist packaging media, including Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor from COSSMA Magazine. Twelve editors from four continents voted and chose winners in two categories: prototypes and cans that are already on the market.

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Hair & Scalp

Care promises a bright future

COSSMA spoke to Melanie Waeckel from DSM about the current trends in the hair care and styling market. She informs about the current main trends in the global hair care market and gives examples for interesting regional variations in trends. She also explains which news has arisen lately from the styling market and points out which noteworthy developments are important to know about.

photo: Ifong,

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Facial Care

Trends in facial skin care

Innovation in facial skincare is bringing brand new concepts to consumers who are extending their product regimes in the quest for healthy, hydrated skin. Many of these new products are featured within the mature anti-ageing sector, but research suggests that perhaps they are not reaching the target for which they are intended: consumers with ageing skin. 

photo: Vlad09,

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Hyaluronic acid gels

Combinations for better results

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in health and beauty applica-tions. New research indicates some promising new findings for HA gels in topical anti-ageing cosmetics. HA is a well-established ingredient in various cosmetic products and offers numer-ous benefits. It controls the proliferation of skin cells via the CD44 receptor and has some anti-inflammatory effects on the skin1. In addition, it influences the growth of keratinocytes, which protect the epidermis from ageing and, thanks to the double bond structure of its D-glucuronic acid moiety2, it also has antioxidant properties.


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Screening of actives

Time-saving screening platform

SimDerma and INCOS are new platforms which facilitate the cost-effective and rapid screening of cosmetic active ingredients and the development of new synergistic formulations.
In cooperation with SimCosmetic from Spain, VivaCell Biotechnology has launched two new drug test platforms on the market: SimDerma and INCOS. These platforms support cost-efficient and rapid multi-parameter screening to prove the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and formulations and to develop new synergistic ingredient combinations.

photo: Cunaplus,

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Creames, lotions, exfoliants

The formulations we are focussing on in this issue are lotions, creams and exfoliants. Of the broad choice of formulations sub-mitted, we took a closer look at the exfoliation products presented. Exfoliation is when flaky old skin from the surface of the epidermis is removed. The skin’s surface is gently brushed with a product that contains an abrasive ingredient which can either be natural, chemical and/or mechanical. This product is gently rubbed into the skin to brush off the tired old skin. While microbeads used to be very common, due to environmental reasons there is now a large choice of alternative abrasive materials on the market. In the field of exfoliating products, Amadeo Brasca offers a Delicate Exfoli-ating Cream, a gentle facial scrub for sensi-tive skin which absorbs sebum. Akzo No-bel’s Revitalizing Clean Facial Scrub is part scrub and part cleanser, a smart oil-free and paraben-free hybrid with natural elements providing the thickening, suspending and exfoliating properties.

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