May 2013

Editorial Focus: Actives

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Actives

Trend-setting actives in view

Andrea Weber, Head of the R&D centre at Babor points out why several interesting new actives are to be expected from ”blue biotechnology” which is the acquisition of new substances from marine plant life.

Front cover picture: Max777, Shutterstock.com

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Stem cells and meristematic cells

New sources of actives for cosmetics

Since 2008 we have heard words such as plant stem cells, native plant cells, plant cell technology, epidermal mother cells and adult stem cells as part of an exciting new cosmetics trend. Angela Kleiner of Croda offers an overview of the latest developments and some future plans.

Foto: Kinetic Imagery, Shutterstock.com

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Endocrine disruptors

Are parabens, phthalates and other chemicals safe in cosmetics?

Some scientists have suggested that chemicals, including those used in cosmetics, may be disrupting human endocrine systems such as hormones secreted by the ovaries, testes, and thyroid. Human exposure to these substances may produce male infertility, cancers and other adverse reproductive effects. Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, ex-L’Oréal, however, questions the endocrine disrupting activities of chemicals in cosmetics.

Foto: Kubais, Shutterstock.com

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Products with innovative actives

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out a number of fascinating new products with innovative actives:

Foot Mask,
Whitening Enliver,
Aqua Boosting Primer,
CE-Thione Rechargeable Vitamin C Antioxidant Formula,
Ampoules by Dr. Grandel
and Active Defense Day Shield SPF 45,

Picture: Mintel

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The statement by the SCCS

Key points summarised

Dr. Rainer Wohlfart from the Kneipp company and the perfumer Erich Schmidt explain, in an interview with Angelika Meiss, how they see the impact of the SCCS stance and planned course of action on the subject of fragrance allergies.

Foto: Yuri Arcurs, Shutterstock.com

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EU Cosmetics Directive

What is really changing?

Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA and Birgit Huber of the IKW explain, in an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, what is really new in the Cosmetics Directive, which are the biggest challenges for the manufacturer, and what can be expected with the updating of the substance list and the definition of nanomaterials.

Foto: Katalinks, Shutterstock.com

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Strong branding

Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages

The simple but refined packaging for the Strellson men’s fragrance ‘Loaded’ has fullsurface structured embossing and carries an unusual rubber band closure. The intense white Algro Design cardboard carton skilfully accentuates the contrasts and also has other advantages.

Foto: Sappi

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Trend Statement

Current Trends in Actives

Markus Lüthy, founder and MD of Elfetin Cosmetics, explains why not just the active substance but also the concentration level of such a substance that plays a key role in the efficacy of cosmetics. Based on many years with the active substance suppliers Pentapharm (now DSM) Mr. Lüthy can confidently say that in Elfetin's products, the company uses as high a concentration of the active substance as they can.

Foto: Isak 55, Shutterstock.com

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Formulations

Natural Cosmetics

In this issue our selection of formulations covers products for natural cosmetics.

The natural cosmetics trend is still very significant, but is developing in a more modest way than it was a few years ago. For many manufacturers it has become clear that one way to progress is to look and see to what extent traditional products can be reformulated as natural ones. Our selection of formulations submitted has something for everyone, and in a wide range of product categories.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 38 of the printed edition.

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