September 2012

Editorial Focus: Facial Care

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Facial Care

Particularly effective cocktails of actives

COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss asked representatives of Babor, Dr. Grandel, Janssen, Jean-Pierre Rosselet, MBK (Methode Brigitte Kettner) and Wellmaxx about the latest trends in active ingredients. The experts were all agreed – plant based stem cells, hyaluronic acid, peptides, amino acids, retinol and Q 10 are pointing the way..

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cover picture: Bochkarev Photography,

Neurogenic inflammation

Overcoming sensitive skin

Petra Anni Schmidt of CLR shows, with the help of test results, how the lipophilic active Phyto Defense CLR, extracted from the bark of the magnolia tree, can reduce symptoms in sensitive skin such as neurogenic inflammation and also skin redness physically induced by shaving.

picture: CLR

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How to influence a natural process

Petra Biehl from Evonik presents a plant-derived versatile skin vitalizer. The standardized plant extract, based on pentacyclic triterpenes, is designed to combat hormonal ageing by inducing growth factors such as VEGF, and by up-regulating markers related to increased sebum production. In addition, in a series of in vivo studies, the vitalizer reduced skin dryness by enhancing the amount of skin sebum. It also increased dermal density.

picture: Evonik

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New Facial Care Products

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out a number of fascinating new facial care products:

Acseine Super Sunshield,
Crème Gourmande Moisturizer,
La Prairie’s Skin Caviar Liquid Lift,
3Lab The Serum,
Embryolisse Crème Anti-Âge Global
und Açai Clarifying Face Lotion

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picture: Mintel


Relief for sensitive skin

Lipotec’s hexapeptide Delisens, designed for use on sensitive skin, diminishes PAR-2-induced release of pro-inflammatory mediators, attenuating neurogenic inflammation and relieving itching in sensitive skin. It also helps to restore the damaged barrier function, preventing further inflammation.

photo: YuliaPodlesnova,

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Plant-based hormones combat the signs of age

Petra Schlegel of Greentech explains which actives, obtained from phytohormones, can be used particularly effectively in combating the unwelcome impact of the menopause.
photo: Elena Ray,

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Economic and sustainable

Alternatives to silicones

Finding alternatives to the benefits offered by the versatility of silicones is a challenge. Martina Heldermann shows that the Ecocert certified, all natural, LexFeel N series, thanks to their multifunctional properties, can be used as cost-effective alternatives to Dimethicones and Cyclomethicones with convincing sensorial properties.

picture: Corrado,

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Body Care

In this issue our selection of formulations covers products for body care. Here you will find more than 30 formulations from a wide range of suppliers and to meet a wide range of body care requirements. Among the numerous moisturising products in our list we find Sun ripened tomato moisturising cream from Seatons to be particularly interesting. In our own part of the world they may be unusual, yet perhaps the creation of a Body Powder by Akzo Nobel could be the start of a new trend.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 36 of the printed edition.

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