March 2011

Editorial Focus: Make-up and Styling

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Make-up and Styling

Fillers and more
Special effects –subtle, or very bold

In this interview with Kerstin Dornhöfer we look at the special features, use and possible applications of Merck’s latest functional fillers and special effect pigments.

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picture: Geka

Natural cosmetics and conformity labels

Each OK in its own way

Certification systems for natural cosmetics are the result of extended discussions involving numerous different institutions and organisations – and so the requirements of the different certification systems are equally diverse. The most important, often amazingly different, requirements of the established certification bodies offering a seal of approval are detailed by Dr. Wilfried Petersen, Managing Director of Dr. Straetmans, who also examines how the consequences of these systems for natural cosmetics certification affect their formulation. He compares the seals of approval offered by NaTrue, BDIH, Ecocert and COSMOS.

picture: R.K.B by Adam Pauli,

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Pigment Dispersions

The targeted use of pigment wetting agents

Torsten Krohn, Sabrina Baumgart and Katharina Redeker, explain how, by using the right pigment wetting agent, the production of pigment dispersions is optimised and made more sustainable.

picture: Zschimmer & Schwarz

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Body Care Made Easy

Mild and  natural, renwable body cleansing products

Mild and natural, renewable skin and hair cleansing products are much in demand, but until now such products left a lot to be desired in terms of foaming and viscosity, and were costly to produce. New approaches and new solutions  are offered by the new Plantapon PSC surfactant system

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picture: Cognis

New Make-Up Products

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out a number of fascinating make-up products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:

Hissyfit collection  - the Clockpot-Konzept
Max Factor Eye Gradation Colors
Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color
Lancôme L'Absolu Rouge Advanced Replenishing & Reshaping Lipcolor

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picture: Shiseido

Alternative Preservation

The “Know-how”

Martina Heldermann of Inolex shows how, by the clever use of commonly found alternatives, safe and “preservative free” formulations can be developed.

picture: Jeanette Dietl,

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Optimizing silicones in formulations

Over the last two decades the number of silicone compounds offered to personal care formulators has drastically increased. Tony O’Lenick and Andrew O’Lenick from Siltech describe the advantages of alkyl silicones.

picture:  Darphin

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Skin Cleansing

In this issue our selection of formulations covers products for skin cleansing.

The Nouvelle Vague Balm-to-Milk Wash formulation from Jan Dekker International sounds very interesting, as does PhytoTerra Cleansing Oil from Arch Personal Care. For facial cleansing we have facial care lotions such as Caring Face Tonic with Honey Vinegar from Cosmetochem and Moisturizing Face Tonic from Greentech. In addition Lab. Expanscience has put forward a Transparent Facial Cleanser and Cognis has sent us the Facial Gel Wash Anti-Acne. Products with an exfoliating action include Complexion Clearing Scrub from Croda, Healthy Skin Facial Scrub from Protameen and Macadamia Exfoliating Facial Cleanser from Southern Cross. For make-up removal the basic Foaming Make-up Remover formulation from Inolex or Truly Soft Make-up Remover from Provital have a lot to offer.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 58 of the printed edition.

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