January/February 2011

Editorial Focus: Hair Care

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Hair Care: Actives + Additives

Be ready for future trends

What are the major trends that will have a significant impact on the future hair care market? This is a question that industry experts from Arch, Cornelius, Croda, Dow Corning, Indena, Sederma and Waitaki can best answer. They also point to some ingredients that can effectively respond to these trends.

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picture: Dieter Bakic

Natural Hair Care

A pardox?

Dr. Fernando Ibarra of Dr. Straetmans shows that even in natural hair care the quality of ingredients is improving. The effectiveness of natural hair care products has not yet reached the quality of conventional products, especially in the field of professional hair care, but the gap is narrowing. With new ingredients and combinations of conditioning agents, and when a hair care series consisting of shampoo plus hair treatment is applied, results similar to conventional hair care can be achieved.

picture: Paul Mitchell

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Safety assessment of botanical ingredients

New standardized approaches required

Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, Scientific Director, Worldwide Safety Evaluation at L’Oréal, explains in an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss that the safety assessment of botanicals is more complex than that of conventional ingredients. Given the fact that novel botanical ingredients used in personal care products may contain unknown substances with novel toxicological properties, new approaches to their safety assessment are needed. So there is a need to develop standardised, pragmatic and conservative approaches for appropriate quality and safety standards of plant-derived ingredients.

picture: L'Oréal

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International Hair Care Launches

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out the following products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:

Premium Phyto Ampleur by Highside,
Hair Wash,
American Crew Trichology Hair Recovery,
Hair Recovery Foam,
Hydrate-Me Rinse by Kevin Murphy,
Liquid Keratin Bold 30 Day Straightener,
Rodin Olio Lusso by Recine Luxury Hair Oil,
The Shu Uemura Shusu Sleek,
Shampooing Lissant,
Shokubutsu Umareno’s Scalp Shampoo by Ishizawa Laboratories,
Less is More by Lim Cosmetics,
Styling Line,
Limesoufflé Gel-Wax

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picture: Avon

Emballage 2010

Recovery reaches the packaging sector

With 1,295 exhibitors and 500 represented brands, as well as 85,372 trade visitors, the Emballage international trade fair, which took place in Paris Nord Villepinte from November 22nd to 25th, was good indication of how economic recovery is now reaching the packaging sector

picture: Embatherm

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Cryobuds as a cosmetic active

Tender young buds play a major role

In so-called alternative medicine it is the tender buds from trees and shrubs which are used. This is where the vital energy for the growing plant is held. This concept comes from Gemmotherapy where extracts from the most vital parts of the plant are pro-duced. Greentech has adopted this know-how and makes the power of life and growth in a plant available to modern cosmetics using Cryoextraction, a Greentech patented process.

picture: Verena M. pixelio.com

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German cleaners and detergents market

Slight fall contrasts with strong growth

In Germany sales of personal care products, at 12.8 billion Euros, were about 0.3 percent down on the figure for the previous year. This result can be attributed to a large extent to the tough competition between brand owners and in the distribution chain, as well as the strong push in Germany to sell at rock-bottom prices. Cleaning and laundry products on the other hand grew by 3.5 percent to 4.3 billion Euros. Dr. Rüdiger Mittendorff, Chairman of Germany’s Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association, and MD of Sebapharma, describes how the different product categories performed in 2010.

picture: Vichy

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Sun Care

Although the winter still holds short, grey days in store for us this selection of sun care formulations will hopefully turn our thoughts to sunnier summer days.

When the sun is really beating down in the sky there is, for example, the Sun Guard Broad Spectrum Sunscreen from Akzo Nobel which offers all-round protection. And those for whom a pleasant skin feel is also important the Effortlessly Silky Sun Lotion SPF 50 from Croda should be of particular interest. Anyone preferring a gentler type of sun protection will find that the Chemical Filter Free W/O Cream, with SPF25-30, from Impag’s distribution partner Sunjin, or Natural Balanced Sunscreen with Ecocert Materials from Kobo Products are pleasant alternatives

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 37 of the printed edition.

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