May 2010

Editorial Focus: Anti-Ageing

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In vitro skin repair tests for dry skin
Demonstrating effec-tive skin care

Dr. Claas Rüffer, Research Scientist from Dermatest, shows how in vitro full thickness skin models provide specific informa-tion on damaged skin morphology and the corresponding repair processes without the need for direct contact with the test subject. Use of this model is highly instructive when testing the action of moisturising cosmetics products or therapeutic lipid blends that support skin repair.
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Versatile Strategies

Fighting expression lines

Míriam Mateu et al. from Lipotec show how a combination of peptides targeting different parts of muscle contraction offers an integral treatment for expression lines. Both pre-synaptic and post-synaptic approaches are reliable routes in combating these lines - either by reducing acetylcholine release or modulating the post-synaptic action potential that leads to muscle contraction.


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Retail cartons, POS displays and more

Full service of a special kind

The Höhn Group, that celebrates its 100th birthday this year, is a single-source supplier of everything from packaging, through POS displays to customer leaflets of all types. The advantages that this offers to the client were seen in the development of ZFill, a product adopted from medical cosmetics

picture: Höhn

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Anti-Aging for Skin and Hair

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out a number of fascinating new anti-ageing products for skin and hair care:

Skin Elastine Magical Firm-Up Smart Mask Set der Akashia-Marke Cellixiér
Serie Dermo-Expertise Youth Code von L'Oréal
Sana Hadanomy Rich Collagen Mist
Baume Réparateur Capillaire
Dr. Ci:Labo Perfect Hyaloline

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picture: Sana Hadanomy

Personal Care Market China

Making market entry that bit easier

What are the prerequisites for making a successful entry into the huge Chinese market? Mei Graefe of Intergate export and services consultants lists some key points.
To sell products in China every cosmetics manufacturer, even Chinese manufacturers, will need a hygiene licence issued by the SFDA (State Food and Drug Administration). Since September 1st 2008 the SFDA has been the official point of contact for licence applications.


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Training and Seminars

A close look at cosmetics training

If we ask those experts currently employed in the cosmetics industry about their training only very few of them will have chosen a cosmetics related route for their further education. Most studied chemistry, biology or pharmacy and were then introduced to the specifics of the cosmetics industry via their jobs. Here COSSMA introduces two German universities that offer courses specifically designed for students planning to work in the cosmetics industry.


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Challenging the preservatives

A key element in safety assessment

Dr. Christian Wunderlich, Director Consumer Product Testing at GfPS shows why a test to challenge the efficacy of preservatives is, for most cosmetics products, the appropriate method of evaluating their microbiological stability.


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Facial Care
Colour Cosmetics

In this issue our selection of formulations covers products for facial care and colour cosmetics.

For those who are keen on natural formulations the following should be of interest: Natural Respect After Shave Balm from Croda, Mineral Oil Free Eye Shadow from DermaGlo Cosmetic Colorants, Natural O/W Face Cream for Dry Skin from Evonik and Natural Lipstick from Zenitech.

Exciting anti-ageing concepts are the promise in formulations such as Night Shift Eye Rescue Lotion from Croda, the Moisturizing Anti-Ageing Cream Gel from Clariant, the O/W Anti-Wrinkle Cream – Filler Effect from Evonik, the Anti wrinkle day cream with IBR-Snowflake from IBR and the Bioenergetic Concentrate for Ageing Skin from ISP.

There is also an interesting selection of concealers: the Blemish Fade Concealer from Croda, the Concealer with Care-Effect from Zschimmer & Schwarz, and the Photocromic Blemish Concealer from PolymerExpert.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 38 of the printed edition.

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