Editorial Focus: Colour + Care
Colour cosmetics: Current trends
Nina Neve, media researcher at Liquidrock, has identified for COSSMA the eight most significant trends emerging in the field of colour cosmetics. A significant point is the fact that traditional personal embellishment based on colour only is now taking a back seat. Alongside the trend towards natural beauty some salient points include a demand for more high-tech, more secret weapons in the colour arsenal, and more professionalism.
What would be an ideal ingredient for cosmetics? It would have to be stable and capable of being used in a wide variety of formulations. It should also have a specifically identifiable action, and excellent sensory properties as well as being physiologically perfectly safe, and if possible be a natural product that is easily biodegradable. What's more … the price should be realistic. For some time now most of these criteria have been met by organo-modified silicones, as Prof. Dr. Andrea Wanninger and Stefanie Wehler from the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences in Krefeld explain.
The way to go
Especially at times when money is not so readily available new products need to be brought to market as soon as possible. It is therefore also important for packaging suppliers not only to be able to supply specific packaging components but also, ideally, to be able to offer the full spectrum of packaging services. And even better if the client can be offered creative formulations, plus filling and logistics services, i.e. a genuine time and money saving one stop shop.
Shades of Luminous Lip Colour
Product Development: International launches
This month Mintel has picked out the following products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:
Apot.Care's Irido-Radiant Sérum Cure Intense inspired by ophthalmology, Secret Serum Anti-Age Treatment Face, Neck and Chest from Happy Cosmetics made with "happiness molecules" from natural plant extracts, and Amore Pacific's Contour Lift Extreme Serum, said to provide instant lifting on the outside and intense firming on the inside.
Green Skin Care
Protection for baby-soft skin
There is nothing as soft and smooth as the skin of a newborn baby. The secret behind this is a substance called vernix caseosa –a biofilm that protects the newborn baby’s skin and, as speciality chemicals supplier Cognis found out, contains, among other things, Glyceryl Oleate. As a result the company has now developed Glyceryl Oleate as a constituent for novel lipid layer enhancing products. Norbert Boyxen explains how a naturally derived high performance additive, Lamesoft PO 65, can be added to formulations in order to support skin care and protection claims, and promote baby-soft skin.
Designing beauty architecture
This year’s In-Focus feature at the In-Cosmetics in Munich was entitled “3D designing beauty architecture”, and involved 7 ingredients suppliers, 3 designers and architects, as well as the major brands L’Oréal and Chanel. The In-Focus exhibition platform forges a strategic synergy between R&D and marketing. In challenging current perceptions and creating product prototypes suppliers anticipate and inspire future trends.
Voilà! Here it is – our fully updated 2009 market survey of ingredients suppliers! In economically difficult times it is more important than ever to know who can supply which ingredients in order that, if necessary, new sources can be investigated. Our table shows at a glance the ingredients available from each supplier and what their specialities are.
Young + mature skin
In this issue our selection of formulations covers not only products for mature skin, but also products for teenagers.
Gentle skin cleansing for teenagers suffering from acne can be achieved with formulations such as Hydrating & Mild Facial Wash Cleansing Gel from Dow Corning, and Mild Anti-Blemish Cleansing Foam from Croda. For an even all-over tone for skin troubled with acne the Anti-inflammatory Loose Powder "Soft Beige" from Eckart may well be the answer.
To combat wrinkles Lipo Chemicals offers the Line Eraser Gel and Zschimmer & Schwarz suggest their Anti-Wrinkle Cream.
In the struggle to beat age-related hair loss C.H. Erbslöh put forward the Nutri Force 5 Shampoo to slow down hair loss and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques have submitted a solution which they call simply No Bald Hair.
The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 36 of the printed edition.
Favorite Formulations of the COSSMA Readers
Top Formulation Downloads 2009
Our formulations page is always a very popular feature. This is where you can quickly find all sorts of interesting new formulations, sorted by category. For those who want to look closely at the individual formulations, they are available for downloading on our web site. As a special service to our readers we have collected together the most popular downloads from January- April 2009. Here you will see at a glance which 15 formulations were accessed most frequently during the past months: The Top 3 are O/W Cream 0,1% MicroSilver BG™, supplied by Bioepiderm and Nature Firming Body Lotion and Natural Caring Cream, both supplied by Dr. Straetmans.