April 2009

Editorial Focus: Fragrances

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Trend statements

Crisis-proof fragrances

What's happening in the field of bio-fragrances? What are the most exciting fragrance trends at the moment? What new ingredients are there? These are the questions we put to experts from well-known fragrance houses: Drom, CPL Aromas, Firmenich, Givaudan and Robertet.

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Liquid Rock Trend Ticker

Innovation and creativity : The recession’s silver lining!

According to Nina Neve, media researcher at Liquidrock, the effect of the global downturn on the fragrance business will become very obvious, reflected in new perfume trends that will become successful over the next few years. The message is loud and clear: optimism is in and seriousness is over. Consumers are looking for greater control of their lives, underscored with a sense of hope. The world feels as if it is out of control, and a very gloomy place.

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Filming agent gives eyes a striking look

The new Baycusan C product line which is bveing launched at the In-Cosmetics exhibition is the result of research in the field of cosmetics by Bayer MaterialScience, a division with expertise polyurethane synthesis and production. The new range consist of four filming agents which are based on aqueous polyurethane dispersions and a polyurethane powder that is suitable for use as a sensory additive. Dr. Sophie Viala, head of applications technology for cosmetics, here presents two polyurethane dispersions,  Baycusan C 1000 and Baycusan C 1004, and explains their action as filming agents in mascara products.

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Timesaving Shower Wash

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out the following products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:
Cover Girl Outlast Lipstain,
Normandie’s Rush Hour Two-in-One Shower Wash
and the Ayurvedic and organic formulation Mascara Noir Grenade et Aloé Vera from Nature & Decouvertes.

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In-Cosmetics 2009

Green alternatives set the trend

With a record number of 500 exhibitors in-cosmetics, which takes place in Munich from April 21st to 23rd 2009, has increased in size by 20 percent. In our up-to-date sneak preview of new ingredients, it is predominantly natural ingredients that we see.

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From physiology to the end product

Living on our skin

Healthy skin is heavily populated with micro-organisms. The natural micro-flora is an essential component in the natural barrier function of the skin and the mucous membrane. The skin's micro-climate provides an open, semistable system that can be influenced within certain limits. An intact population of indigenous skin flora provides effective protection against pathogenic bacteria such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. For this reason any approach to cosmetics that is based on surface "disinfection" or "decontamination" should be viewed with caution because the body's own protection system can be temporally, or even permanently, weakened.

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Product Savety

Tailor-made preservatives

Ensuring microbiological safety is an indispensable aspect of cosmetics manufacture. However, the excess use of preservatives is certainly to be avoided for health reasons as well as on ecological grounds, and not least for reasons of cost. Michael Zschiesche and Ingo Saar of Kraemer & Martin here present the new Seproven product range which makes it possible to develop individually formulated, product-specific preservatives.

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COSSMA Packaging Summit 2009

Tailor-made packaging event

Whilst a lot of firms in this current uncertain climate are waiting to see what happens, others are unveiling unimagined creativity and are filling new niches with their innovative approach. The first COSSMA Packaging Event will provide further inspiration by way of six practically-oriented presentations on topics selected by you. A further focus of this exclusive event, which takes place on June 17th at the Innside Hotel in Schwabing, Munich's "garden city", is targeted networking.

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Mask and Exfoliants

For an unusual touch of colour with built-in luxury the Black mask with Tahitian pearl from C.H. Erbslöh should be interesting. After all, black masks are not something found every day in the cosmetics business.

On the other hand some of the formulations sound particularly appetising: there is Draining pulp with Moorea pineapple, also from C.H. Erbslöh, Mango Nourishing Facial Mask from Dow Corning, 3-in-1 Deep and Cleansing Scrub Mask Avocado from Merck Pigments and Sugar Scrub with Omega-3 from Natunola. A formulation specially for men, that sounds a bit more lively and energetic, is the Salt & Pepper Scrub for Men from Seppic.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 49 of the printed edition in April.

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Favorite Formulations of the COSSMA Readers

Top Downloads 2008

Our formulations page is always a very popular feature. This is where you can quickly find all sorts of interesting new formulations, sorted by category. For those who want to look closely at the individual formulations, they are available for downloading on our web site at www.cossma.com/formulations. As a special service to our readers we have collected together the most popular downloads of 2008 under the heading Top Downloads 2008. Here you will see at a glance which 25 formulations were accessed most frequently during the past year. Have fun browsing through them!