March 2009

Editorial Focus: Trends in Actives

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Natural AND effective

Whilst for a long period natural cosmetics were regarded very much as a niche market with only a small following of muesli-eating bohemians that wore birch bark shoes, they have now found their way into all aspects of the cosmetics business, where they are quickly gaining ground. The difference now is that natural actives have to be effective. COSSMA asked Dr. Thomas Förster of Henkel about the latest trends in actives

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Liquid Rock Trend Ticker

Techno-goodness: Consumers seeking self-preservation

As consumers are now overdosed with healthcare information the key consumer trends for personal health and wellness will continue. The media are inspiring consumers to think proactively in respect of their health and their appearance. Nina Neve, media researcher at Liquidrock, analyses in what respect this triggers the techno-goodness trends as well as new products with relevance for the cosmetics industry.

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Antibacterial actives

Natural silver for the skin

Barbara Reinhardt of BioEpiderm shows, with the support of a research study, that the skintolerant and totally natural precious metal silver in the form of MicrSilver BG has an antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and bactericidal action in skin care products.

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Design-your-skin with Designing Concentrate

Product Development: International launches

This month Mintel has picked out the following products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:
Rose & Chamomile Gentle Face Scrub,
Designing Concentrate
and Solar Tan Self-Tanning Primer.

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Acoustics for luxury packaging

Quality that you can hear

Gérald Martines of RPC beauté shows how even the sound of a cap closing can signal pure opulence on a luxury flacon. Read in COSSMA 3/2009: What is it that makes sound a mark of luxury?

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Not easy to kill

Bacteria in cosmetics formulations

Despite the continuous flow of exciting new developemts from R&D departments many simple truths are ignored with almost criminal negligence. For example, in cosmetics preparations, because of their microbial load, there is an ongoing process of substance breakdown and conversion which could be avoided by adopting better protective measures. Microbiologist and consultant Dr. Gero Beckmann explains how cosmetics products can best be protected against microbial contamination.

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5th PCD Congress

The challenge: Ecopackaging

At the 5th PCD Congress, which took place in Paris on February 3rd and 4th, 2009, the focus was very much on sustainable development and the compatibility of packaging with the environment. More than 1,200 delegates from the cosmetics industry attended the event and heard about the latest developments in the 38 papers that were presented, as well as seeing what the 60 exhibitors had to offer.

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Facial Care + Colour Cosmetics

On these grey winter days our February issue looks at a nice sunny subject. Yes! This month we have put together for you an interesting collection of exciting new sun care formulations from different ingredients suppliers.

You will find 36 formulations, going from face cream and eye cream through after-shaves to colour cosmetics, put forward by 30 different ingredients suppliers. For example, how about a face cream with the intriguing name Eternal Life Code, proposed by Seppic? In terms of foundations there are the suggestions from LCW, who offer the Powdery Evanescent Foundation, Siltech LLC with their Fluid Foundation, and Dow Corning, who tempt us with the Glams Touch.

The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 35 of the printed edition in February.

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Favorite Formulations of the COSSMA Readers

Top Downloads 2008

Our formulations page is always a very popular feature. This is where you can quickly find all sorts of interesting new formulations, sorted by category. For those who want to look closely at the individual formulations, they are available for downloading on our web site at As a special service to our readers we have collected together the most popular downloads of 2008 under the heading Top Downloads 2008. Here you will see at a glance which 25 formulations were accessed most frequently during the past year. Have fun browsing through them!