December 2008
Editorial Focus: Cosmeceuticals
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Markets
New niche areas in cosmeceuticals
Cosmeceuticals are fuelling growth in the vibrant anti-ageing market and blurring the boundaries between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Imogen Matthews, consultant to In-Cosmetics, analyses recent developments in cosmeceuticals, which are now starting to move into other categories.
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Liquid Rock Trend Ticker
The Future of Cosmeceuticals
Nina Neve, media researcher at Liquidrock, analyses the future of this skin care sub-category and provides a number of striking examples from the company’s latest report on cosmeceuticals to show how this sector will continue to grow. As manufactures continue to search for more potent ingredients, and to make more dramatic claims, the need for legislation increases. The sector has grown to such an extent that it needs recognition and regulation.
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Strategy
CSR – More than cosmetics
An increasing number of companies are turning to corporate social responsibility as an opportunity to place social expectations in the focus of corporate strategy and translate them into a commercial advantage.
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Shower Gel in a floral-shaped sponge
Product Development: International launches
This month Mintel has picked out the following products from Mintel’s Innovation Club:
Spongeables’ Shower Gel in a floral-shaped sponge,
Kobayashi’s Riff Underarm Deodorant Patches
and a Bidet-in-a-Bottle Self-Starter Kit comprising single-sized packs of intimate waters called Spot Clean! from SweetSpot Labs.
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Prevention of premature ageing
Molecular protection against free radicals
Lipotec’s latest active, Preventhelia, creates a molecular protection to neutralise the harmful effects of free radicals, thus producing an innovative defence against premature ageing. The active works at the molecular level to avoid macroscopic ageing and future damage.
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Chinese Medicine
TCM in skin rejuvenation
The holistic use of oriental medicine is arousing increased interest among consumers. There are many recipes within Chinese medicine used for the treatment of skin problems. Dr Daniel Schmid, head of research at Mibelle Biochemistry, describes a formulation using three Chinese medicinal herbs which, following traditional Chinese healing principals, has been specially developed for the protection of sensitive central European skin. With the help of a gene chip the action of this formulation was tested in vitro on 1,300 skin cell genes. The chip makes it possible to analyse hundreds of genes at the same time in one experiment.
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Market Survey Services
At a glance: Service Providers
With the increasing number of niche categories in the cosmetics business more and more companies are being tempted to try their luck in this market with a test product. Fortunately it is not normally necessary to establish one's own production facilities to do this – the task can confidently be assigned to a specialist service provider. The right service pro-vider has a wealth of creativity, knows the market, and can offer sound advice. In this year's market survey we have assembled the contact details and services offered by about 120 service providers.
If you are a service provider, and are not included in this year's survey please send a short e-mail to dorothea.michaelis(at)health-and-beauty(dot)com. This will ensure that you are given the opportunity to submit your company details for the 2009 survey. An entry in the market survey is, of course, free of charge.

Formulations
Creams, Lotions, Exfoliants
Our formulations special in this issue brings you some exciting new ideas for creams, lotions and exfoliant products.
Those who would really prefer to hide away from the grey winter weather may find that the Cherry and Chilli Shower Peeling Gel from Zschimmer & Schwarz will perk them up. And those who would rather have something a bit more peppery may find the Smooth Salt & Pepper Scrub from Croda more appealing.
The very varied mix of basic formulations that have been specially submitted for this issue by ingredients manufacturers can be downloaded free of charge from our web site. You will find your access codes on the Internet button on page 3 and 37 of the printed edition in December.
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