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Cosmeceuticals – a growing niche market

Whilst at one time there was a clear distinction between cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and nutrition, the three overlap areas of cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals and nutricosmetics are growing in importance. In this article we highlight the way in which these emerging markets are impacting on the range of actives and end products.

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Market Survey: Service Providers

Once again this year we have fully updated for you our market survey of service providers to the cosmetics industry. We now include details of more than 100 service providers. Our practical table shows you, at a glance, which companies offer which kinds of services. You will find details of contract manufacturers, scientific test laboratories, other laboratory services, packaging designers, company business consultants, software suppliers, agencies, associations and various other services.

If your company is a service provider, and is missing from the survey, just send an e-mail to to ensure that you are in our next survey in 2007.

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Shower with tea, chocolate on the skin

This month’s most innovative positionings

This month Amanda Lintott of Mintel has picked out the following innova-tive products from the company’s Global New Products Database GNPD: a shower cream with deodorising green tea, a facial bronzing compact which has the look and smell of chocolate, and a spot treatment for wrinkles and lines.

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Particularly rich CO2 extracts

Flavex, specialists in CO2 extraction technology, offer highly concentrated CO2 extracted ingredients. For example one kilo of camomile, calendula or arnica extract is sufficient to produce around one tonne of good quality cos-metics. Because the efficacy can be controlled by way of the concentration levels, higher concentra-tions can also be used.

The kiwi seed CO2 extract, with a 65 percent alpha linoleic acid content, has somewhat more omega 3 fatty acids than the chia seed product. Otherwise the fatty acid spectrum of both oils is, including the omega 3:6 ratio, is similarly attrac-tive. The high concentration of alpha linoleic acid, when used in skin and hair care products, helps protect the moisture content of the skin and hair and prevents the skin from drying out and flaking.

picture: Pixelquelle

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New rheology modifiers and conditioners

Croda’s new OptaSense line is a series of rheology modifiers and conditioners currently comprising seven products with more to come in 2007. As a thickener, OptaSense G40 provides an economical solution for clear gel systems. It has a pleasant, non-tacky feel that is suitable for clear gels or hy-droalcoholic systems and provides excellent thickening at extremely low use levels, making it very economical.

The OptaSense Liquid Dispersion Polymers –RMA50, RMA52, RMA 53 and RMC70 – help to stabilize emulsions and suspensions and offer tem-perature independent thickening thus allowing for the simple creation of elegant creams and lotions. They can be added in either the water phase, the oil phase or at the end of the batch to adjust viscosity. The conditioning polymer OptaSense CP6 performs well over a broad pH range, making it suitable for relaxers, hair dyes and bleaches.

The conditioning polymer OptaSense CP7 is a foam stabiliser and offers good compatibility with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, allowing it to function well in clear shampoos, hand soaps and body washes.

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Creams, lotions and exfoliants

The focus of our formulations page in December is on creams lotions and exfoliants, i.e. the bread and butter business of any cosmetics manufacturer.
The main ingredients of most creams are water, oil, emulsifiers, additives and the active substances, in their various amounts and blends, with a distinction made between water-free, acidic, lipophilic, hydrophilic and amphipilc creams.
Lotions are aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions that are used for cleansing and skin care. They can be astringent, soothing and/or cooling. All liquid O/W emulsions are known as lotions.

Exfoliants, also known as peelings, are the different ways of removing the outer layer of cells from the stratum corneum or “horny” skin layer. Abrasion creams contain minute abrasive particles which are massaged into the skin. Enzyme exfoliants are a biological method of peeling, usually supplied ready to use in ampoules or as a powder to be first mixed with water.

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Information for download issue 12/2006

E-Paper December
(complete pdf-version of print issue available for subscribers)

Additionional information is available for the following articles:

Particularly rich CO2 extracts

>> Product information CO2-Extracts Kiwi, Chia, Amaranth, Pomgranate
>> Benefit of Omega3

Market Survey Service Providers

>> Adress list Service Providers international

New rheology modifiers and conditioners

>> Formulation Perfecting Styling Putty
>> Formulation Fat-Free Conditioner
>> Formulation Gourmet Healthy Hair Salad
>> Formulation Radiant Skin Soufflé
>> Formulation Spring Back to Youth Hair Gel

Shower with tea, chocolate for the skin

>> Product Information Green Tea Shower Cream, 
Bronzing Powder,Targeted Anti-Aging

Formulations: Cremes, Lotions + Exfoliants

>> Anti-orange Peel Cream 
>> Cream For Oily Skin
>> Exfoliant Cream
>> O/W Facial Care Cream 
>> Pre-Sun Skin Protection 
>> Radiance and Tonicity Recovering Cream
>> Regenerating Cream
>> Relaxing Oriental Body Scrub
>> Soothing Serum
>> Toner for Oily Skin

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