February 2005

Focus: Hair Care

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Hair Colorants: Are they save?

Around the globe more and more people of all ages are colouring their hair. But how tolerant are we to the ingredients of hair colorants? This is a question that takes on particular significance when we see press headlines questioning the safety of hair colorants, or even linking them directly to cancer of the bladder. In an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, Dr. Gerd Nohynek, scientific director of toxicology at L’Oréal, explains why hair colorants are safe. 
This article is also available in Russian language


COSSMA Issue 02/2005

When subjected to the high temperatures attained by modern hair styling devices the hair fibres become more brittle and therefore more susceptible to breakage. Silicone polymers, in particular Silsoft Tone by GE Advanced Materials Silicones, delivered by either a shampoo or conditioning product, can provide significant thermal protection. In a study presented by John Nicholson this polymer, which forms a protecting and substantive film along the hair fibre, proved more effective than silicone gum (SF 1214) that is typically used for this purpose. In fact, in addition to more effectively maintaining the mechanical properties of hair, Silsoft Tone also provides superior hair conditioning benefits compared to silicone gum. COS050214 More... 


Nanopearls – the novel carrier generation

Nanopearls are a low cost, versatile cosmetic carrier. According to Prof. Dr. Rainer H. Müller of the Free University of Berlin, they help to enhance the penetration of actives into the skin, increase skin hydration, help to prolong the release of perfumes, permit a reduction in the amount of expensive sunscreen used, and reduce side effects in sun care products. He also shows how to combine them with existing products and how to create formulations based on lipid nanoparticles only. COS050226 More... 





Formulating PEG-free and paraffin-free moisturising wipes

Gabriele Polak of Degussa shows ways to formulate fluids that are free from PEG and paraffin, and that can be used in the manufacture of moisturising tissues. Glyceryl stearate citrate helps produce o/w emulsions which are stable over a long period and can be successfully blended with cosmetics actives and preservative blends which otherwise tend to destabilise an emulsion. Formulations based on polyglyceryl-4 caprate are not only clear, but are characterised by an extremely pleasant skin feel. COS050228 More... 





Treatment of ageing skin

In his literature review, consultant Miklos M. Breuer examines the results of recent scientific research on the alleviation of skin ageing symptoms, methods for evaluating the quality of skin damage repair and restorative skin treatments.COS050230 More... 




Formulations Facial Care

When we hear the words “facial care” we now almost automatically also think of anti-ageing. But not all skin types need the inclusion of anti-ageing ingredients in care products. What, for instance, is best for a skin type that produces too much sebum? Nobody wants a greasy, shiny skin! In the February issue, we present a serum, developed by Rahn, that regulates sebum production and at the same time imparts a silky feel to the skin. Starting with this, our January issue, we will be supplementing the formulations in the magazine with additional examples posted on the internet.