The world of cosmetic science

What was new?

Thomas Förster from Henkel* presented The Smart Salon concept which includes individualised hair care and colouration products based on NIR/UV-Vis hair status analysis, consumer consultation and a smart mixing device in the hair salon. After a complete hair diagnosis, all gathered data are combined in a decision matrix to create and formulate a hyper-customised shampoo formulation. The compact mixing machine uses a proprietary manufacturing process to dynamically formulate and produce a custom care solution. A study showed that the customised shampoo formulation showed an overall better performance in the main functions for damaged hair than a non-customised shampoo. 

www.henkel.com 

BASF’s focus: anti-­pollution and anti-acne developments

BASF presented study results conducted with a novel standardised method which investigates both adhesion to and removal of particulate matter from the skin. With the help of these findings new formulations were developed. These formulations exhibited clear anti-adhesion and removability effects and help safeguard the skin against damage caused by particulate matter. 

BASF experts assessed synthetic sebum oxidation under simulated conditions of average city pollution using different test methods. Their findings provide evidence and clues for further investigation of anti-pollution ingredients for skin and scalp. As one of the largest suppliers of safe-to-use, high-performance UV filters that help protect the skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation, the company shared new insights on molecular aggregates in sunscreens as well as detecting spatial UV filter repartition using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. 

During poster sessions BASF experts presented how they selected a plant extract which reduces sebum production in the sebaceous glands using a 3D model developed by BASF. Although epicutaneous patch testing is routinely used as a screening method for skin compatibility during the development and optimisation of cosmetic formulations, it does not allow all reactions to be assessed. BASF presented the results of a study conducted together with the DGK work group on skin compatibility, indicating that simple modifications of existing test protocols can lead to important insights into immediate type skin reactions. These modifications can be used to create further building blocks in the development and optimisation of test strategies for cosmetic formulations. 

On the scientific programme of the congress, BASF experts presented a number of new results. Dr Annette Mehling talked about Doing the dirty work – systematically: Anti-adhesion studies on particulate matter (anti-pollution). Prof Dr Bernd Herzog presented the topic Molecular aggregates in sunscreens – from liposomes to particles. Dr Annette Mehling presented a poster about An unexpected journey: Lessons learned from epicutaneous patch testing. Dr Zhi Rao presented a poster about Investigation of the effect of city pollution model on sebum oxidation. Dr Myriam Sohn presented a poster about: Use of Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy technique for detecting spatial UV filter repartition, and Dr Valérie Andre-Frei presented a poster about Highly efficient plant extract against oily skin determined by 2-D and 3-D sebaceous models.