Lonza launches premium skin care ingredients

Alessandra Batelli, Global Project Lead, BioActives,  and Maggie Ellis, Business Development at  Lonza present the company's new launches: Lonza’s premium skin-care ingredients 

At in-cosmetics Global 2019, Lonza launched the newest in its portfolio of bioactives, H2OBioEV™ Bioactive, a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that revitalizes, rejuvenates and moisturizes skin.

“H2OBioEV™ Bioactive moisturizes by replenishing essential humectants, which provide an optimal environment for epidermal proteins to form and maintain a strong barrier, thus restoring a smooth and radiant appearance,” said Vanessa Arruda, PhD, Global Market Development Manager, Bioactives. “It is an evolution in moisturization, to refresh and revitalize skin.”

Twice Unique

H2OBioEV™ BioActive is unique because it offers three different biophysical and biochemical approaches to address dry skin from a single ingredient. H2OBioEV™ bioactive rejuvenates skin by:

Depositing an invisible film that locks moisture in the skin

Replenishing essential humectants and providing a stabilizing environment for functional skin proteins

Stimulating the expression of proteins essential to forming and maintaining an optimal skin barrier function

“The modern consumer has different needs and expectations, which change the way she or he chooses products,” Dr. Arruda said, referring to a recent Euromonitor survey.1 “Rather than looking for a specific type of product, consumers are looking for cutting-edge technologies that provide particular functionalities. They recognize five categories of functionality in cosmetic products: rejuvenating, age defying, age reversing, beauty enhancing and imperfection correcting.”

Responding to consumer demand to rejuvenate and revitalize skin, Lonza created H2OBioEV™ Bioactive by optimizing a unique combination of naturally sourced ingredients, including Aphanothece Sacrum and Galactoarabinan polysaccharides.

Aphanothece sacrum is rich in ampholytic macromolecular polysaccharide, which is highly hydrophilic and absorbs more water than other typical polysaccharides

Galactoarabinan is sourced sustainably from the larch tree and extracted via a patented technology. It is known to reduce Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) on the skin, providing long-lasting moisturization and hydration

H2OBioEV™ Bioactive is ideal for use in facial and body moisturizers, lip balm, hand care and face masks, which Dr. Arruda said are “a super-trend in Asia and all around the globe.”

Proven Results

In independent in vivo clinical tests, scientists collected facial images and topography profiles via Primos 3D and Visia CR imaging techniques and analyzed the images for the appearance of wrinkles and skin texture. 

Dr. Arruda reported the images showed “a significant reduction in both the appearance of wrinkle depth and mean roughness with the H2OBioEV™ Bioactive, thereby providing a skin-smoothing effect in the pre-orbital region of the face. The Visia CR imaging system showed statistically significant reductions in surface irregularity and the coefficient of visibility of lines and wrinkles.”

Ex vivo tests showed H2OBioEV™ Bioactive helped improve the skin’s barrier structure, increased the skin’s own moisturization capability and improved cell-cell cohesion.

Lonza launched its new SYNETH™ range of polyglycerol esters, extremely versatile non-ionic emulsifiers and surfactants that help formulators strike the perfect balance between functionality, aesthetics and mildness.

Based on a unique and customizable polyglycerol ester chemistry, the SYNETH range provides key formulation properties and enables formulation without compromise.

“We designed the SYNETHTM range to help formulators address consumers’ desire to care for their bodies and the environment while meeting their demands for innovative, luxurious products,” said Jennifer Clancy, Lonza Senior Director of Global Marketing. “We developed the SYNETH™ range from a single, versatile and customizable chemistry to increase formulation efficiency and speed to market.”

Versatility Across the Range

The SYNETHTM polyglycerol esters offer formulators a complete tool kit of emulsifiers and surfactants for virtually any application or product form in beauty and personal care, ranging from cleansers to emulsification of water/oil (w/o) emulsions.

The SYNETH™ emulsifiers/surfactants can be used in a range of leave-on and rinse-off applications for skin, hair and scalp care.

At in-cosmetics Global 2019, Lonza also is highlighting its most recent flagship bioactives, XPressEV™ Bioactive and Screenlight™ Block.

XPressEV™ Bioactive

Lonza’s premium skin-care ingredient, XPressEV™ bioactive functional is suitable for formulations designated for areas where consumers require the appearance of firmer, fitter skin, primarily the face but also the neck and hands. Designed to help mitigate the visible effects of chronological aging, it is targeted for consumers of both genders and of all ages.

XPressEV™ bioactive is an “evolution for personal care in skin surface architecture” because it works within the skin layers targeting the dermis and the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ).

XPressEV™ bioactive functional is created using cutting-edge Supercritical CO2 extraction, a more environmentally friendly process than traditional extraction techniques, to obtain extract of Morus Nigra from mulberry leaves. Other ingredients are pearl extract, which has been used in traditional Chinese remedies and cosmetics for hundreds of years; linseed oil and canola oil.

ScreenLight™ Block

ScreenLight™ Block bioactive functional helps protect skin from the visible effects of blue light and environmental stressors such as UV light and pollution. It is suitable for such skin-care formulations as facial cream and aftershave lotion, for makeup and for gentle cosmetic formulations.

ScreenLight™ Block helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, resulting in skin that appears more evenly toned (based on in vivo clinical data). It helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (based on subjects’ perceptions of themselves), and it helps prevent increased melanin production from exposure to visible light and pollution (based on ex vivo data).

Lonza produces the ScreenLight™ Block by using Supercritical CO2 extraction to obtain the Physalis alkekengi extract from the subtropical Chinese lantern fruit.

https://www.lonza.com/about-lonza/media-center/news/Tensid/2019-04-01-13-00-English.aspx